If you share my passion and enthusiasm for independent watch design, the Voutilainen Vingt-8 is a timepiece that truly speaks for itself. Renowned in the industry, the Vingt-8 was created by one of the most respected figures in independent watchmaking—the esteemed Kari Voutilainen, an accomplished Finnish watchmaker. Before founding his eponymous brand/watch atelier, Voutilainen trained at the restoration house of Michel Parmigiani and later took on a teaching position with the Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program. The Vingt-8 first debuted in 2011 and has since become a pivotal reference, serving as a cornerstone in Voutilainen’s catalog of offerings and is today one of the most sought-after watches among collectors worldwide.
If you’re familiar with Kari Voutilainen’s creations, you likely already recognize his signature case and dial design, which ranks among the finest in the realm of high-end independent watchmaking. While the overall aesthetic and construction may appear relatively simple from a glance, there are subtle nuances that make Voutilainen's pieces easily recognizable. In this particular model, the entire case features a three-part construction, all crafted from 950 platinum and mirror-polished for an elegant finish. At each end of the case, you’ll find one of Voutilainen’s hallmark design traits—pronounced teardrop lugs that seamlessly integrate into the mid-case section, adding a touch of visual intrigue and sensuality. Measuring 39mm x 11mm, the Vingt-8 is perfectly sized for modern wrists; it is neither too large nor too small and sits comfortably thanks to its gently curved lugs and ergonomic case.
Moving on to the dial fitted on our example, the pristine ivory surface complements the ice-cold platinum case very well. The construction begins with a silver base adorned with an array of Voutilainen’s renowned hand-turned guilloché techniques. The hour markers, presented in two forms—Arabic numerals and baton-style markers—are carefully applied onto a hobnail guilloché chapter ring. Surrounding this section is a satiné circulaire (meaning a chapter ring with a circular-brushed finish applied using a spinning lathe) minute chapter ring, with each minute dot marker perfectly aligned with their respective hour indicators. At the center of the dial, you’ll see a pronounced rosette guilloché motif, while the small seconds sub-dial at 6:00 features a basketweave guilloché pattern. In line with the dial’s overall aesthetic, this register also showcases a similar satiné circulaire chapter ring for the seconds' markers. Completing the ensemble is a set of Voutilainen’s famous Observatoire-style hands in white gold, accented with thermally blued inserts that add a striking visual contrast to the meticulously crafted dial.
At the heart of this Vingt-8 is Voutilainen’s in-house Cal. 28, a superbly finished manual-winding movement that is designed, fabricated, finished, and assembled within Voutilainen's workshops in Môtiers, near Geneva. It is regulated by a free-sprung balance with a Breguet overcoil, an internal Grossmann curve, and a direct impulse escapement equipped with two large escapement wheels. According to Voutilainen, this escapement configuration is highly efficient as it requires significantly less energy than traditional lever escapements, providing a technical advantage in terms of stability and longevity, perfect for everyday use.
Needless to say, the overall aesthetic and visual appeal of the highly engineered Cal. 28 is second to none. It showcases an elaborate, multi-layered arrangement with generous depth and spacing between the bridges, all impeccably executed and embellished with exquisite Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes), anglage, and sublime black polishing on the balance bridge. One aspect I particularly appreciate about the movement is its close visual proximity to the open display sapphire caseback, which allows for an up-close view of the synchronized movements of all the components. In terms of power reserve, the Cal. 28 can hold a charge of up to 50 hours when fully wound.
A sensational horological masterpiece from every angle, this Voutilainen Vingt-8 in platinum is a true work of art that exemplifies the pinnacle of high-end independent watchmaking and exceptional hand-finishing techniques. For discerning collectors seeking truly unique independent watches with outstanding craftsmanship, I highly recommend taking a closer look at this piece.
One final point I’d like to highlight, which I usually wouldn’t, is how fantastic the presentation of this example is. It comes with a beautiful wooden presentation box by Cédric Vichard, a renowned cabinetmaker from Neuchâtel, as it was originally retailed. While the focus is typically on the watches themselves, it’s also worth noting that tasteful packaging can be just as important, especially when trying to match the grandeur of a Haute Horlogerie piece like this Vingt-8. Anyway, I digress—I shall let the photos do the talking.
