Founded in 1997 by Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner, Urwerk is one of the independent watchmaking industry's most prolific brands with a sense of watchmaking that fuses the traditional with futuristic design and a somewhat novel appreciation for the very concept of time. As such, Urwerk's timepieces are outside of the ordinary regarding their mechanical operation and aesthetic design.
On offer today is the Urwerk UR103.08 TiAlN, a reference that is aesthetically rooted in the revered UR103 model, which holds an esteemed position in the illustrious history of the brand as it cemented Urwerk's reputation as one of the foremost independent brands in the world of haute horlogerie. Originally unveiled in 2007, the UR103.08 TiAlN remains an extraordinary variant of the venerable UR103 that continues to captivate collectors and connoisseurs alike, making it one of the most highly coveted Urwerk references to this day.
For those who are unfamiliar, TiAlN stands for titanium-aluminium-nitride, a cutting-edge coating that bestows upon the UR103.08 its distinctive deep purple-ish brown hue, showcasing varying tones depending on the surrounding lighting conditions. This treatment not only adds to its aesthetic appeal but also holds exceptional industrial properties, enhancing the resilience of the underlying metal. In fact, TiAlN surpasses DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) in terms of hardness, boasting an impressive Vickers rating of 3500. To put this into perspective, traditional steel only achieves a Vickers rating of 600, while gold measures at 380 and sapphire at approximately 4000 Vickers. Given its exceptional visual and material-enhancing properties, it comes as no surprise that Urwerk has embraced this innovative approach as part of the design of this particular UR103 variant.
Moving on to the display of the UR103.08, it is worth noting that many Urwerk enthusiasts are already acquainted with one of the most iconic aspects of the UR103 series: the distinctive satellite complication, which displays the hours on four orbiting satellites that gracefully traverse along the minute track from east to west, akin to the movement of the sun. The UR-103.08 is essentially Urwerk's interpretation of the wandering hours complication. A quick glance at the top display reveals the mesmerizing arrangement of the four satellites made from PVD-coated aluminium, grouped in sets of three numbers, carried on arms crafted from PVD-coated grade 2 titanium which are attached to the main unit revolving carousel. As the carousel rotates, the satellites rotate to indicate the hours as it gently grazes along the minute track to indicate the time.
Powering this display from within is Urwerk's manual-winding Cal 3.03 with a power reserve of 43 hours. Flipping the watch over reveals a ‘control board’ crafted from grade 5 titanium, which serves as a hub for several indicators. Among them, you’ll find a power reserve indicator, 15-minute and small seconds sub-dials for precise and convenient time setting, as well as a fine-tuning screw, allowing adjustments to the watch's rate if it runs fast or slow. This is a rare feature in modern timepieces and it is reminiscent of older pocket watches from bygone eras.
In terms of wearability, the UR103.08 TiAlN case, while sharing its design origins with other UR103 models, offers a notable advantage. Thanks to the darker tone of the TiAlN coating which lends it some aesthetic versatility, the UR103.08 appears slightly smaller on wrist and can complement any modern-sized wrist nicely.
Undoubtedly, the UR103.08 TiAlN stands as a truly unique and rare variant within the Urwerk collection. With the appreciation of independent brands growing to an all-time high in recent times, Urwerk is certainly a brand to watch, creating watches that are both rare and truly unique.
