The Rolex Submariner is one of the most recognisable and popular watches in the world, period. Like most Rolexes, it requires no introduction. While there are certainly more expensive and sought-after references out there, one of the most enduring and popular vintage variants of the Submariner would have to be the Ref. 1680 ‘Red’ Submariner. Named as such because this transitional reference had the ‘Submariner’ text in vibrant red rather than the conventional white, collectors have placed a premium on this as they were produced for a short time only, from 1967 up until 1975. Heck, these days, even non-vintage guys know what a ‘Red Sub’ is!
What can I say? This particular Red Submariner is far from ordinary—though, to be fair, no Red Submariner could really ever be called ordinary. This specific example features a Mk 6 dial and bears a unique engraving on the caseback indicating it was issued to the Peruvian Air Force (Fuerza Aérea del Perú). You see, back in the 1960s, Rolex had a longstanding relationship with the Peruvian Air Force, and during this period, the Peruvian Air Force took delivery of an estimated 700-800 Rolex models. It is quite rare to find Red Subs issued to the Peruvian Air Force. These watches were fitted with standard dials but were uniquely marked with engravings on the casebacks. Needless to say, such variants are extremely rare and highly coveted by vintage Rolex enthusiasts and collectors, making pieces like this one truly exceptional.
As mentioned earlier, the dial on this example features a stunning Mk 6 dial, with a rich, evenly aged, pumpkin-colored patina on the lume markers. For those unfamiliar, Mk 6 dials are easy to identify, as they are the only Red Submariner dials across the entire production run that has a closed ‘6’ in the text inscription at 6:00. Additionally, this piece is fitted with a ‘fat font’ Mk 3 aluminum bezel insert that shows some signs of ghosting—an appealing characteristic often seen on vintage Rolex models with pre-Cerachrom bezel inserts, particularly when the effect is as evenly distributed as it is here.
Another noteworthy trait of Peruvian Air Force Rolex references is that the full serial number of the watch is engraved on the underside of the caseback, alongside its corresponding reference number—unlike standard Submariners, which usually only feature the reference number in that location.
Powering the Ref. 1680 from within is Rolex’s Cal. 1575, a robust self-winding movement that beats at a rate of 19,800 vph and carries a power reserve of 42 hours on a full wind. It is also worth noting that, while the movement's rotor bridge is stamped '1570', which denotes the calibre number, this is actually a legitimate discrepancy. The Cal. 1575 is essentially identical to the Cal. 1570, differing only by the addition of a calendar module. The internal components of both movements are fundamentally the same, and Rolex employed a single part labelled with the base calibre number, a practice that greatly contrasts with today's highly standardized Rolex production process.
I believe there’s a compelling reason why vintage Rolex Submariners have always been so popular—just take a look at this one. It’s an exceptional tool watch, offering a perfect balance of design, functionality, and character, even for those who aren’t hardcore watch enthusiasts like us. With its beautifully aged ‘ghosted’ bezel, bold, bevelled Oyster case, Red Submariner text, and matte black dial with evenly patinated luminous markers, it’s simply an undeniably handsome watch to wear and own. Again, what makes this particular example even more special is its connection to the Peruvian Air Force—it's not every day you come across a military Red Submariner like this.
