While not historically known for their tool watches, Patek Philippe surprised the world in Baselworld 2015 by introducing the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524G. It was radically different in design to what we have come to expect from the de facto king of Swiss watches, and this release signalled a significant shift in focus to younger consumers.
For years, the Calatrava collection had always been simple, elegant, and classical in design–a hallmark of Patek Philippe's own identity as a watchmaking Maison. The Pilot Travel Time took all of these traits that one might expect from a traditional-looking Patek and delivered them in a rather bold and unconventional format. While you might be wondering what business Patek Philippe might have in producing pilot watches, it's interesting to note that the Maison actually produced pilot watches in the 1930s (the P0844, look it up, it’s pretty interesting), which now is part of the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. Ultimately proving to be a controversial release, the new Travel Time grew in popularity thanks to its status as a tasteful marriage between Patek Philippe's signature refined elegance and the rugged aesthetics and reliability of a pilot’s watch.
What we have here today is no ordinary 5524G, though; this particular example features a rare Tiffany & Co. stamped dial. For those who do not know, Tiffany & Co. was Patek Philippe’s very first official retailer in the United States and has been selling Patek Philippe timepieces since 1851. Since then, this distribution partnership eventually evolved into an ongoing collaboration of producing timepieces that are double stamped, which is why we see examples like this right here bearing both Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. logos. While Patek Philippe in the past has had double-stamped dials by other distributors around the world, the only one remaining that is allowed this privilege today is Tiffany and Co in New York.
The 5524G boasts a visually serene dark navy dial accented with bold, gothic numerals that complement its cathedral hands. Thanks to its pilot watch heritage and DNA, the watch is exceptionally legible while exuding a certain elegance and stylish flair that only Patek Philippe can deliver. It also features a pointer-date subdial at 6:00 with the elusive Tiffany & Co. stamp subtly placed within. Accompanying this is a white skeleton hour hand that aligns with the home-time AM/PM aperture on the right, while mirroring the local time's AM/PM aperture on the left. The result is a clean, symmetrical, and entirely pragmatic dial for the well-traveled amongst us.
With its 18-carat white gold case sporting two mushroom-style screw-down pushers on the left at 8:00 and 10:00 (which allows the user to adjust the second time zone forward or back), the 5524G's 42mm case construction is quite balanced on the wrist as its standard crown at 3:00 intersects the line between the two pushers. Powered by Patek Philippe’s in-house Cal. 324 S C FUS movement, the 5524G displays the finest of Patek Philippe's craftsmanship beneath its exhibition caseback, in keeping with the Maison's uncompromising standards of craftsmanship, artistry, and detail.
An excellent example of pushing technical design boundaries and exploring uncharted routes in the landscape of modern watchmaking, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524G is an incredible watch that provides a compelling and utilitarian alternative to the brand’s more traditional and understated pieces. Combined with its Tiffany & Co. New York provenance, this particular 5524G stands out as perhaps one of the most desirable, rare, and special 5524s in the world.
