Perhaps the most iconic dress watch collection ever, the Patek Philippe Calatrava embodies the very essence of what a classically styled timepiece should look like. Defining the entire market niche in 1932 when it was released, the Calatrava has become a mainstay within Patek Philippe's offerings, with its latest round of updates coming in 2021 with the "Clous de Paris" ref. 6119, which I just so happen to have here.
A tribute to the well-known and historic Calatrava ref. 3919 and its successor, the ref. 5119, the ref. 6119 blends several signature design elements into one in the form of a larger case to create a more contemporary guise in keeping with modern collector's preferences residing with larger watches. Sized at 39mm, the ref. 6119 features a refined aesthetic with its studded Clous de Paris bezel layered upon an otherwise understated circular case design with sharp lugs.
The ref. 6119G is constructed from 18ct white gold with a monotone grey dial featuring a vertical satin-brushed finish that contrasts the polished finish applied to the ref. 6119G's elegant white gold case. Providing a similar contrast within the dial, the ref. 6119G features a small second dial at 6 o'clock with a concentric finish that contrasts the rest of its brushed dial, polished case, and hobnail textured bezel. It is hard to capture the enigmatic nature of the grey dial as the range it produces depending on the lighting ranges from a near blackout color to a supple and light grey brushed tone. An elegant watch with its Bauhaus-derived design aesthetic proudly on display, the ref. 6119G is clearly influenced by its puritan roots and historical lineage.
While somewhat vintage-inspired, the ref. 6119G is by no means a slouch when it comes to the mechanics found within as it is powered by the modern cal. 30-255 movement like its two predecessor models. One of the biggest gripes from collectors about the previous Calatrava line was that as the case sizes got bigger throughout the generations, the movement stayed small, as Patek used the same manually wound caliber for decades. With the new and updated Ref. 6119G, the manual-wind cal. 30-255 fits perfectly to the case and is finely finished.
This is a fantastic update to one of Patek Philippe’s most important and iconic lines and is exactly the revamp that will continue to maintain the legacy of the Calatrava.