Arguably the most iconic dress watch collection in history, the Patek Philippe Calatrava represents the true essence of a classically designed timepiece. First introduced in 1932, it defined the dress watch category and has remained a cornerstone of Patek Philippe’s catalog ever since. Revered by collectors and enthusiasts worldwide, the Calatrava is widely regarded as the quintessential dress watch, setting the standard for many brands that followed. Patek Philippe continues to honor and build upon this legacy with each new iteration.
For some historical context, let’s go back to the 1930s when Charles and Henri Stern acquired the Patek Philippe brand. To revitalize the company, they introduced their first model, the iconic Calatrava. The Ref. 96 was launched in 1932, at a time when wristwatches were beginning to replace pocket watches, solidifying Patek Philippe's position as one of the world’s premier watchmakers. Today, the Stern family still owns Patek Philippe, and the Calatrava remains a cornerstone offering in the Maison’s collection of timepieces.
Over the years, the Calatrava has undergone numerous iterations, featuring different case sizes and dial styles. The 5227G, in particular, stands out as one of the most attractive variants in Patek Philippe’s modern Calatrava collection. There’s something about the simple, minimalist and traditional-looking design of the Calatrava that resonates with many—especially in a piece like this, with its hunter-style caseback and a rare Tiffany & Co. stamped dial. It doesn’t get much better than this.
To provide some context on the significance of Tiffany & Co. stamped dials, it's important to note that Tiffany & Co. was Patek Philippe’s very first official retailer in the United States, having sold Patek Philippe timepieces in its boutiques since 1851. Over time, this partnership evolved into a unique collaboration, with both brands producing timepieces featuring double-stamped dials—like the one seen here, displaying both the Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. logos. While Patek Philippe has had double-stamped dials from various distributors worldwide in the past, today, Tiffany & Co. in New York is the only retailer still granted this privilege.
Starting with its contemporarily-sized 39mm x 9.24mm white gold case, the 5227G exhibits a level of dimensionality rarely seen in what is typically considered a simple dress watch. This is achieved through its finely sculpted case and the two pairs of scalloped lugs at each end, which introduce a sense of depth and complexity to its visual appeal. Encased within is a deep black lacquered dial, outlined by individual hour markers and a minutes-track around the periphery, which is complemented by a pair of faceted, polished white gold dauphine hands at the centre. A discreet date window with a matching black date wheel sits at 3:00. Staring at the dial almost feels like gazing into the abyss—it has a certain hypnotic quality that fosters a delicate sense of balance, adding an unexpected layer of complexity to such a minimal design. That said, there’s little more to say about the dial, as the Calatrava has always prioritized visual balance and clean aesthetics.
Powering the 5227G is Patek Philippe’s in-house, self-winding Cal. 324 SC, discreetly hidden beneath a hunter-style caseback, which is elegantly and almost invisibly hinged to the case itself. When opened, it reveals the Cal. 324 SC in all its splendour. As expected from a brand residing within the Holy Trinity, the movement bears the prestigious Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal) and is beautifully finished to the highest standards. The 21-carat gold central rotor sits atop its meticulously finished bridges, gears, screws, and jewels. Comprising 213 parts, the Cal. 324 SC also features a free-sprung Gyromax balance wheel and silicon Spiromax balance spring. In terms of power reserve, it can hold a charge for up to 45 hours on a full wind.
"Look closer, look closer still. Look inside the ‘A’ of Tiffany and you’ll see a small photo of myself as a child." These were the famous words shared by John Mayer during Hodinkee’s inaugural episode of Talking Watches more than a decade ago, as he reflected on his Aquanaut 5164A ‘Travel Time’ with a similar Tiffany & Co. stamped dial. Strange as it may sound, his words kept coming to mind during my time spent with this rare Tiffany dial 5227G.
Anyway, I mention all this to highlight the added layer of exclusivity that comes with Tiffany-stamped Patek dials; you just don’t see too many of these out in the wild. At the end of the day, when it comes to dress watches, no one does it quite like Patek Philippe with the Calatrava. Its design language is pure, refined, and simple, yet incredibly easy to love and appreciate. With excellent contemporary proportions and timeless elegance, this impeccable and rare Tiffany-stamped 5227G is a superb example of a contemporary dress watch—one that remains elusive and understated, until someone with a discerning eye notices.
