One of the bedrocks of the Patek Philippe collection is its classic dress watch—the Calatrava. A necessary foundation piece for any Haute Horlogerie brand, the dress watch archetype is a must and with the Calatrava, Patek Philippe continues to build on its rich tradition to this day.
For a bit of historical context, we go back to the ’30s when Charles and Henri Stern purchased the Patek Philippe brand. To revamp the manufacture, the first model they produced is, of course, the Calatrava. The reference 96 came in 1932, at a time when wristwatches were beginning to take over pocket watches, and it was a move that cemented their status as one of the eminent watch brands of the world. To this day, the Stern family still owns Patek Philippe, and you can tell that the Calatrava is still very important today.
Offered here today is an exceptionally rare example of a Calatrava 3520J, presented in a sleek and resplendent 18-carat yellow gold case which houses a subtle eggshell-colored dial, and a set of thin gold hands gracefully positioned at its center. As depicted in the photos, this particular variant stands out due to its unique stylistic Breguet numerals—a design element not commonly seen on this reference, as most 3520 models typically feature either generic baton hour markers or Roman numerals. While the aesthetics may appear straightforward, it embodies the essence of the Calatrava collection: understated elegance executed with precision and craftsmanship, in line with the high standards expected from a Maison within the Holy Trinity.
Though the 33.5mm case size might seem small by modern standards, its long, elegantly shaped lugs ensure it wears larger than its diameter suggests. In fact, I genuinely think this size strikes the perfect balance for a dress watch like the Calatrava, as anything larger would detract from its classic, refined appeal.
At the heart of the 3520J is Patek Philippe’s in-house Cal. 175, an ultra-thin, 9-ligne manual winding movement derived from the Frederic Piguet Cal. 21 ébauche. As you can see from the photos in the listing, the 18-jeweled Cal. 175 is exquisitely finished and bears the prestigious Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal).
The Calatrava is widely regarded by enthusiasts as the epitome of the ideal dress watch, a sentiment I wholeheartedly share and agree with. It is remarkably simple in design but yet so incredibly easy to love and appreciate. With exceptionally timeless proportions and elegance, this charming Calatrava 3520J is a great dress watch and one that remains understated, until someone who knows notices.
