Avid vintage Patek Philippe collectors and connoisseurs know that during the 1940s and 1950s, the Maison placed significant emphasis on case and lug design, resulting in a myriad of references with unconventional designs that possess art deco elements. While these references may not have the same widespread recognition as iconic pieces like the famed Nautilus or the Aquanaut, there is an entire, often overlooked side to vintage Patek Philippe collecting that is filled with hidden gems still waiting to be uncovered.
That being said, I’ve always believed that the lugs of a watch are just as crucial as the dial. In many ways, watch lugs function like little arms, extending outward to secure the watch onto the wrist. They are undeniably an essential element of any timepiece, with their function often shaping their form. Yet, they are frequently overlooked, especially today, when numbers on a spec sheet tend to dominate the conversation about a watch’s wearability. Given all this, I’ve always found mid-century watches with unorthodox lug designs to be a true delight to discover and appreciate. The Patek Philippe Ref. 2514, offered here, stands as a prime example of this.
When you think of a mid-century dress watch, you often think of a simple time-only configuration with a traditional round case. However, the Ref. 2514 offers something beyond that. Encased in a square case with softly rounded corners, the Ref. 2514 features two pairs of very unusual "cow horn" lugs. They appear slightly concave when viewed from the top and are ever so slightly downturned when you look at them from the side. These lugs give the Ref. 2514 an artistic and ornate quality that is unmatched by the modern dress watches we see today.
The silvered dial on this example showcases highly ornate appliqué hour markers, a set of dauphine hands, a minute track and a logo signature, both of which are subtly raised and finished in contrasting black enamel. Given its rarity and unconventional looks, there was not much information about this particular reference, except that some examples occasionally appear at auctions. It is worth noting that there are also several variations featuring slightly different dial configurations and lugs.
Powering the Ref. 2514 from within is the magnificently finished Cal. 27 SC, a manual-winding movement introduced by Patek Philippe in 1949, which features a central seconds display and has a power reserve of up to 42 hours on a full wind.
At 30.5mm, I foresee many would argue that the case size of the Ref. 2514 may not be suitable for modern wrists, but I beg to differ. Returning to my argument that lug design is just as important as the dial—the beautiful "cow horn" lugs on the Ref. 2514 are actually what makes the watch wearable by modern standards. Ultimately, the Ref. 2514 embodies the design language that reflected Patek Philippe's mid-century philosophy, offering a fascinating glimpse into the Maison’s creative focus and the lavish aesthetic of the 1950s. It is understated yet elegant, with just the right amount of flair. I genuinely believe that there is something truly special about vintage Patek Philippe references like this—they slip under the cuff effortlessly, waiting for someone to take notice. For me, these are the kinds of watches I find most intriguing.
