Avid vintage Patek Philippe collectors and connoisseurs know that during the 1940s and 1950s, the Maison placed significant emphasis on case and lug design, resulting in a myriad of references with unconventional designs that possess art deco elements. While these references may not have the same widespread recognition as iconic pieces like the famed Nautilus or the Aquanaut, there is an entire, often overlooked side to vintage Patek Philippe collecting that is filled with hidden gems still waiting to be uncovered.
When you think of a mid-century dress watch, a simple time-only configuration with a traditional round case typically comes to mind. However, the watch offered today—the Ref. 2436—offers something more than that. Encased in a softly rounded square case, the Ref. 2436 features a striking stepped bezel and two pairs of lugs that echo this thematic stepped design. While the lugs appear straight from above, they have a dramatic downward curve that enhances both the ergonomics and wearability. These lugs lend the Ref. 2436 an artistic, ornate quality that sets it apart from a lot of the modern dress watches we see today.
The striking dial of this example is adorned with highly ornate, faceted appliqué hour markers, complemented by distinct Roman numerals at 12:00, 3:00, and 9:00, a contrasting minutes track along the periphery, and a small seconds sub-dial at 6:00. Due to its overall rarity and unorthodox design, limited information is available on this reference, though it is known that these watches were offered in several variations crafted in different precious metals, and they occasionally appear in auctions from time to time.
Powering the Ref. 2436 from within is the magnificent Cal. 10-200, an 18-jeweled, manual-winding movement which was considered to be the best “10-ligne” movement of its time. It also holds a power reserve of up to 48-hours when fully wound.
Ultimately, the Ref. 2436 embodies the design language that reflected Patek Philippe's mid-century philosophy, offering a fascinating glimpse into the Maison’s creative focus and the lavish aesthetic of the 1950s. Discreet yet elegant, with just the right amount of flair, I genuinely think that there is something truly underrated about vintage Patek Philippe references like this Ref. 2436. It evokes the charm of a charismatic old gentleman from a world of refined taste and distinction, exuding an old-world allure that is as rare as it is captivating. With near-perfect proportions and timeless elegance, the Ref. 2436 makes for a great dress watch—one that remains understated, until someone with a keen eye notices.
