Parmigiani Fleurier is an independent brand that can be described as a manufacturer that goes beyond surface appearances. Often only talked about within enthusiast circles, the brand has garnered a reputation as somewhat of an underdog in the realm of independent watchmaking. Before its eventual establishment in 1996, Michel Parmigiani, operated a small Mesure et Art du Temps (restoration workshop) in Couvet, Switzerland, where he was renowned for his expertise in the art of timepiece restoration. As time went on, Michel began crafting unique watches for clients, and the Parmigiani restoration workshop became a training ground for some of the most accomplished and highly regarded independent watchmakers who have since made their mark in the industry. Most notably, Kari Voutilainen, Stepan Sarpaneva and Raúl Pagès.
Today, Parmigiani Fleurier has garnered recognition as one of the most extensively vertically integrated watch manufacturers globally. Its facilities have assumed a crucial role within the Swiss watch industry's supply chain due to its extensive involvement in the production of various essential components for watch manufacturing/production, including balance springs and movements, etc. Additionally, the brand's expertise extends to the restoration of historically significant clocks and timepieces from around the world. These are a few of Michel Parmigiani’s many achievements which have contributed to his recognition as one of the pioneers of the industry, earning him the moniker of one of the "fathers" of independent watchmaking.
Offered here today is a first-generation Toric Tourbillon Ref. 2840 in platinum. First introduced around 2000, the Ref. 2840 also marks Parmigiani Fleurier’s debut tourbillon. In the context of haute horlogerie, they are often regarded as an unspoken rite of passage and a benchmark for many watchmakers in demonstrating their technical prowess and capabilities. Established in 1996, Parmigiani Fleurier is a relatively young brand, so the fact that they were able to release a complication of such caliber in merely four years after its founding is an impressive feat, undoubtedly speaking volumes to the manufacture’s watchmaking and technical mastery.
From a design perspective, the Ref. 2840 hails from the Toric collection, which, as the name suggests, draws inspiration from the geometry of a torus. This is particularly evident in the Ref. 2840's case, which is crafted in line with the Golden Ratio. The design features stepped, fluted bezels and two pairs of finely scalloped lugs that curve downward just ever so slightly. When viewed from a distance, the case exudes a lavish and ornamental flair, evoking the aesthetic of Greek Doric columns—an architectural element from ancient Greece that represents one of the five orders of classical architecture.
Powering the Ref. 2840 from within its 40mm platinum 950 case is the 20-jewelled, manual-winding Cal. PF280, featuring a tourbillon regulator and an impressive 72-hour power reserve. Visible through the exhibition sapphire caseback, you can see that the Cal. PF280 is adorned with exquisite Côtes de Genève decoration, as well as a myriad of beautifully executed hand-finishing techniques. Interestingly, the Cal. PF280 also bears a visual resemblance to the Girard Perregaux Three Bridges ébauche. You see, during the manufacture’s early years, Parmigiani Fleurier actually utilized high-quality ébauches, which were then modified, assembled, and finished in-house. For those unaware, the Girard-Perregaux ébauche was originally designed for pocket watches and has a decorated history dating back to the 19th century. According to scholarly sources, the movement was initially fitted with 3 nickel bridges to power a tourbillon chronometer pocket watch made by Constant Girard in 1860, which went on to win top honors at the 1867 and 1889 Paris World Exhibitions (a.k.a the “Exposition Universelle”) as well as the prestigious Neuchâtel Observatory Prize in 1911—one of the most esteemed competitions for timepiece accuracy.
Moving on to its dial, it’s important to note that the dial is open-worked, revealing the reverse side of the Cal. PF280 movement, also beautifully embellished with Côtes de Genève and encircled by a black-dotted rehaut along the dial’s periphery. Visually, the dial adopts a clean minimalist approach that allows the stunning tourbillon cage at 6:00 to take centerstage. Positioned at 12:00, an oval ring proudly displays the Parmigiani Fleurier brand signature. Completing the dial is a set of thermally blued, javelin-style hands, which add a touch of elegance and provide a lovely contrast to the overall aesthetic.
What can I say? The Toric Tourbillon is undeniably an extraordinary and charming timepiece. The seamless fusion of traditional elements with modern touches and subtle nuances here is a testament to the creative brilliance of Michel Parmigiani, resulting in a sophisticated design that truly comes to life when viewed and handled in person. Ultimately, the Toric Tourbillon presents an overall aesthetic that is truly unparalleled, particularly within its era. Personally, as an admirer of tourbillon complications, this piece unquestionably earns a place among my personal favorites, alongside icons like the Daniel Roth 2187 Tourbillon, the Breguet Ref. 3357, and others.
