Parmigiani Fleurier is an independent brand that can be described as a manufacturer that goes beyond surface appearances. Often only talked about within enthusiast circles, the brand has garnered a reputation as somewhat of an underdog in the realm of independent watchmaking. Before its eventual establishment in 1996, Michel Parmigiani, operated a small Mesure et Art du Temps (restoration workshop) in Couvet, Switzerland, where he was renowned for his expertise in the art of timepiece restoration. As time went on, Michel began crafting unique watches for clients, and the Parmigiani restoration workshop became a training ground for some of the most accomplished and highly regarded independent watchmakers who have since made their mark in the industry. Most notably, Kari Voutilainen, Stepan Sarpaneva and Raúl Pagès.
Today, Parmigiani Fleurier has garnered recognition as one of the most extensively vertically integrated watch manufacturers globally. Its facilities have assumed a crucial role within the Swiss watch industry's supply chain due to its extensive involvement in the production of various essential components for watch manufacturing/production, including balance springs, movements and more. Additionally, the brand's expertise extends to the restoration of historically significant clocks and timepieces from around the world. These are a few of Michel Parmigiani’s many achievements which have contributed to his recognition as one of the pioneers of the industry, earning him the moniker of one of the "fathers" of independent watchmaking.
Those who follow the brand closely would know that the Toric Memory Time was a pivotal design for the brand, symbolizing not just Parmigiani Fleurier's inaugural horological offering but also showcasing the technical savoir-faire of Michel Parmigiani at the time. As time passed, it became a mainstay design for the brand with signature design elements like hand-knurled bezels and welded lugs, laying the groundwork for subsequent designs and references that came after, including this first-generation Toric Chronograph offered here today, which is a prime example of how these distinctive design features have been further developed, built and integrated into later and newer models.
The Toric Chronograph we have here begins with a 40mm sized case made of 18-carat rose gold. It also showcases several signature design elements that embody the essence of the brand's design philosophy, such as its hand-knurled bezel, prominent welded lugs, elegantly stepped flat chronograph pushers, as well as a blue sapphire cabochon crown. When observed from a distance, the case emanates a certain ornamental allure reminiscent of the architectural grandeur of Greek Doric columns - a testament to the classical orders of ancient Greece.
Encased within the case is a dial with a subtle eggshell hue which hosts three concentric subdials. It is complemented by an unconventionally-placed date window aperture at the 1:30 position, a graduated minute scale along the rehaut section and 12 stylised Arabic numerals along its periphery, a slight aesthetic departure from the more common Roman numerals found on this particular reference. Completing the dial are a set of javelin-style hour and minute hands, a thermally-blued chronograph hand with a moon crescent counterweight, and an oval ring at 12 o’clock proudly displaying the Parmigiani Fleurier brand signature.
Powering the Toric Chronograph from within is the Cal. PF190, a heavily modified movement derived from the venerable Zenith El Primero Cal. 400z. As expected of Parmigiani, the movement has been beautifully finished and hosts a resplendent solid gold rotor adorned with intricate guilloché and a ‘PF’ signature at its center. It is also worth noting that while Parmigiani is renowned for its vertical integration when it comes to in-house manufacturing, early models (which are also quite sought-after by collectors) like this first-generation Toric Chronograph were introduced before the brand fully established its ‘Watchmaking Center’.
What can I say? The Toric Chronograph is an exceptionally charming dressy chronograph, even by royal standards (quite literally), as King Charles III was famously spotted over the years wearing a similar example with a silver guilloché dial and Roman numerals. Ultimately, there is something to be said about Parmigiani’s seamless fusion of traditional elements with modern touches and subtle nuance. This is a testament to the creative brilliance of Michel Parmigiani, resulting in a sophisticated design that truly comes to life when viewed and handled in person.
