Parmigiani Fleurier is an independent brand that has, in recent years, gained its status as an underdog in the world of watchmaking. They occupy a very interesting space within the world of Swiss watch brands. In my mind, Parmigiani Fleurier is a “more than meets the eye” kind of manufacturer. In other words, ‘understatement’ is their design mantra. They are also a brand that draws most of its watchmaking expertise from the art of restoration. For that reason, Parmigiani Fleurier is not a brand you typically hear watch collectors often rave about, but what makes the manufacture so special is the fact they have produced some absolutely stunning watches over the past two decades.
Refined lines, an exquisite case profile, ergonomically correct proportions, and a timeless aesthetic with subtle elegance — these physical attributes define the essence of the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda collection. Today, we proudly introduce the Maison’s take on perhaps one of the most popular archetypes in contemporary watchmaking — the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante.
With this Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante coming in an ergonomic and contemporarily sized 40mm x 10.4mm stainless steel case, it may initially appear unassuming from a distance. However, upon closer examination, it becomes evident that this timepiece possesses hidden depths; there is more to this Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante than meets the eye. It exhibits many of the distinct stylistic elements that Parmigiani Fleurier had so deftly established for its predecessors: a meticulously hand-knurled bezel, beautiful flared lugs, and in this case, a well-made integrated bracelet with alternating finishing on the links that interplays with the light wonderfully.
While we’re on the topic of hidden depths, as the name implies, the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante also features a GMT function. However, it diverges from the typical GMT complication many are accustomed to. Eschewing the conventional date window aperture, the AM/PM indicator, and the 24-hour hand we typically expect to see on GMT watches, the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante uses a subtle method to indicate its second-time zone. A semi-concealed, open-worked hour hand in rose gold, nestled just beneath its white gold counterpart, serves as the home time indicator. Meanwhile, the white gold hour hand, which indicates the local time, can be adjusted (in one-hour increments) using the elegantly discreet pusher located on the outer side of the bottom left lug. When you engage the rose gold pusher atop its crown, the two hands will then merge seamlessly. Additionally, adorning its masterfully crafted blue dial, you’ll also find an oval ‘PF’ cartouche at 12 o ‘clock, as well as a refined hand-guilloché grain d’orge (barleycorn) motif on the dial – which is, one of the finest forms of guilloché finishing in modern watchmaking today.
Breathing life into this Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante is Parmigiani Fleurier’s magnificent in-house, self-winding Cal. PF051. It features enticing architecture and a gorgeous gold micro-rotor with the same matching guilloché grain d’orge that is found on the dial. As far as power reserve is concerned, the Cal. PF051 holds a capacity of 48 hours on a full wind.
In the realm of watchmaking, the GMT complication has long been associated with practicality and functionality above all else. But here, Parmigiani Fleurier has boldly attempted to reimagine what a GMT complication could look like within their highly acclaimed Tonda PF collection. The result? A fresh and novel interpretation of the GMT complication that not only transcends its utilitarian origins, but also highlights Parmigiani Fleurier’s watchmaking pedigree as a well-respected independent luxury watch brand.
All I can say is that the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante exudes a deceptive simplicity for a GMT watch, yet it embodies much more than mere aesthetics. It stands as a testament to Parmigiani Fleurier’s steadfast commitment to its design principles, encapsulating innovation and serving as a masterclass in restrained design.
For all of the reasons I have elaborated above, this particular Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante right here is, in my mind, a compelling masterpiece of a modern sports watch that can effortlessly complement any serious collector’s watch box and daily rotation.
