This is the Omega Seamaster 300m ‘Black Black’—and no, that’s not a typo, because everything about this watch is black, except for the Co-Axial movement nestled within, of course. As one of Omega's more divisive modern offerings to date, the Seamaster ‘Black Black’ presents a technically sophisticated and contemporary interpretation of the classic Seamaster design template, by enveloping it in a sleek, all-black ceramic construction that extends from the case to the bezel, and even the crowns.
I’d start by saying that the Seamaster ‘Black Black’ represents a conceptual juxtaposition in its own right. What was supposedly a tool watch—the Seamaster with its iconic and pragmatic design—has been presented in a material that seemingly detracts from its overall practicality and, to a larger extent, its legibility. However, Omega’s intention with the ‘Black Black’ wasn’t to stir controversy; rather, it aimed to showcase its technical expertise through the innovative use of materials and finishing techniques rarely seen in traditional watchmaking. After handling and experiencing the watch in the metal, it becomes evident to me that Omega has also thoughtfully designed the Seamaster ‘Black Black’ in a way that deliberately highlights the contrasting finishes on the dial, bezel, and, to some degree, the case itself, as an effort to compensate for legibility. This approach results in a watch with a beautifully sculpted, dynamic yet stealthy in appearance that remains surprisingly straightforward to read under regular lighting conditions.
Starting with its robust 43.5mm x 14.47mm ZrO2 ceramic case, the Seamaster ‘Black Black’ showcases a stealthy yet aggressive styling not typically seen on the other Seamasters. Given that it is a proper professional dive watch, it utilizes a screw-down crown at 3:00 and a helium escape valve at the 10:00 position which are both crafted from ceramic. The watch also features a ceramic bezel insert with polished and raised numeral indications, complemented by a contrasting textured/grained finish that is achieved via laser ablation—a method that removes material by irradiating it with a concentrated laser beam. According to Omega, this addresses the common issue of fingerprints accumulating on the surface of ceramic by incorporating raised indications on the bezel in positive relief.
Turning our attention to its seemingly all-black dial, the Seamaster ‘Black Black’ is, as I previously mentioned, surprisingly easy to read. This is achieved by having the Seamaster’s signature wave pattern engraved in positive relief, complemented by the text and Omega logo, which are all laser-ablated from a single piece of ceramic. Additionally, it also hosts a set of skeletonized hands at the center and applied hour markers in black PVD and filled with anthracite lume. The best part? There’s no date window aperture here to disrupt the uniformity of the dial—it is as clean as it gets.
Powering the ‘Black Black’ is Omega’s in-house, self-winding, METAS-certified Cal. 8806. The movement is regulated by a Co-Axial escapement and a free-sprung balance wheel featuring a silicon balance spring. True to Omega's standards, this anti-magnetic (15,000-gauss) caliber is beautifully finished, showcasing a rhodium-plated rotor and bridges adorned with Geneva waves in Arabesque. It operates methodically at 25,200 bph and offers a 55-hour power reserve on a full wind. The movement can be admired through the sapphire exhibition caseback, which uses Omega’s patented NAIAD lock system, ensuring the caseback remains perfectly aligned when locked.
In conclusion, I find it quite exciting to see brands like Omega pushing the technical boundaries of modern watchmaking, especially with their bold use of innovative technology and unconventional materials. In a time where innovation can sometimes feel stagnant, uninspiring and heavy with languor, this experimental spirit deserves to be celebrated.
