Many of us tend to overlook the fact that the realm of high-end watchmaking extends far beyond the Swiss Jura mountains. In addition to Switzerland, Germany and Japan also hold their place of prominence in this arena. Among the Japanese independent brands, Naoya Hida occupies a prominent position at the forefront. Established in 2018, Naoya Hida & Co. is a Tokyo-based watch atelier that embodies the passion and expertise of its founder, Hida-san. Having previously served as a representative for esteemed brands like F.P. Journe and Ralph Lauren in Japan, Hida-san brought a wealth of experience to his newly founded independent brand, as he sought to create highly limited timepieces that fuse classical design inspiration with modern technical proficiency. The result? Simple timepieces that are finished to a very, very high level, like the NH Type 4A-1 we have on offer here today.
Starting with the case, the Type 4A-1 features a refined Calatrava styling, measuring a modest 36mm x 11mm and expertly crafted from 904L stainless steel, chosen by Naoya Hida for its superior corrosion resistance. The screw-down caseback here is adorned with a circular brushed surface, which is an ode to classic timepieces of the 1950s and 1960s era. Although the case may appear understated from afar, its undeniably impeccable craftsmanship and finishing would reveal itself when observed up close, reflecting Naoya Hida’s dedication to achieving an exceptional level of quality with this particular reference.
Moving on to the stunning dial, the Type 4A-1 beautifully marries vintage aesthetics with Japanese craftsmanship. Crafted from DLC-treated German silver, this dial pays tribute to the designs found on early timepieces with its nostalgic design elements, such as the engraved sector-like inner circle, which are reminiscent of early Calatrava aesthetics found on vintage Patek, Vacheron, Omega, Longines etc. That said, when you compare this Type 4A-1 to Hida-san’s earlier releases, it becomes clear this model is without a doubt, a contemporary watch at its core, as it features a slightly more casual and sporty vibe with the inclusion of a set of newly designed diamond-shaped hands. Adding to this visual, the grey dial is also adorned with hand-engraved, white-filled, modern sans-serif Arabic numerals with a lustrous glossy sheen. This is achieved by carefully filling them with an ivory-colored synthetic lacquer called ‘Cashew’, as noted by Hida-san. Needless to say, the execution of all design elements on this Type 4A-1 dial is simply impeccable, achieving a level of ‘cleanliness’ that is almost second to none.
As for the movement encased within, the Type 4A-1 is powered by a highly modified Valjoux Cal. 7750 movement, specifically adapted here as the manual-winding NH Cal. 3020SS. This choice was influenced by the renowned reliability and serviceability of the workhorse Valjoux Cal. 7750. Several notable modifications have been made to this Valjoux caliber, including the removal of the self-winding mechanism, the chronograph components as well as the sub-seconds to accommodate an indirect centre seconds mechanism. Additionally, a newly designed main and balance bridge is included, as well as a new winding click spring to resemble the tactile winding feel reminiscent of movements found in vintage watches. The 22-jeweled NH Cal. 3020SS also offers a power reserve of 45 hours on a full wind.
To me, timepieces created by Naoya Hida embody the very essence of what makes the Japanese approach to artisanal craftsmanship and independent horology so captivating. Their ability to take something seemingly simple and elevate it to the highest level of artistry is truly remarkable. It is a testament to their unwavering commitment to excellence and their deep understanding of the intricacies of their craft. Also, in a world where mass production often dominates, witnessing the work of a small independent watch atelier like Naoya Hida is truly refreshing.
It is worth noting that only approximately 15 pieces of the NH Type 4A-1 will be produced between 2024 and 2025, making this example an exceptionally rare reference to boot.
