Being an independent watch brand is no easy feat. Taking on the Swiss juggernauts in a time when the market is saturated with different watches and having the odds stacked against you is something most would run away from. I mean, it is clear- just look at the number of independent brands over the years that have come and gone, who just couldn’t make it and either sold out to a bigger brand or just vanished completely.
That being said, if there was a shining light, a name that has defied the odds, through truly original thinking and an unwavering desire for quality, it would have to be MING.
Established in 2017 in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Ming Thein founded his eponymous brand with the intention of creating a watch that satiated his obsessive desire for perfection while maintaining a price point that was fair and accessible. Being associated with the watch industry for many years through both his passion and his profession as a commercial photographer, he managed to build up a vast knowledge of watchmaking and design, culminating with the release of the inaugural 17.01 in 2017.
In 2022, MING celebrated its 5th anniversary in watchmaking by unveiling a new design within their Special Projects Cave program—a by-invitation-only initiative dedicated to creating unique pieces and limited-edition watches in very small quantities.
Enter the 37.04, a monopusher chronograph powered by a movement originally made famous by legendary watchmakers François-Paul Journe, Vianney Halter, and Denis Flageollet, who first used it in the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir. In line with this, the design team at MING successfully sourced a batch of these movements, then set about extensively reworking and refining them specifically for the 37.04. In other words, the movement encased here within the 37.04's ultra-light grade 5 titanium case is a significantly improved version of the original, meticulously reworked by La Joux Perret in La Chaux-de-Fonds to MING’s exacting specifications. As shown in the photos, the new skeletonized bridges are coated in classical-grained 5N rose gold and feature hand-polished anglage—a distinctive finishing style also found on MING’s 19.02 and 19.05 models. Regarding its power reserve, the reworked LJP5000.M1 can hold a charge of up to 38 hours on a full wind.
In addition to the above, also encased within the watch is a black guilloché dial produced by Comblémine SA, a dial-manufacturing company helmed by the legendary Kari Voutilainen, known for creating some of the most beautiful watch dials in existence. As mentioned earlier, the dial is adorned with an intricate guilloché and is subsequently covered by a sapphire layer that displays the multi-scaled design featuring a pulsometer, tachymeter, and minute markers, each on different levels and all intricately treated with Super-Luminova X1 inlays. The recessed chronograph minute counter is also seamlessly integrated into the metal dial itself. It’s remarkable how the team managed to tastefully combine all these elements—each of which, on paper, seems like a lot—into a design that is both visually stimulating and cohesive. The result is a stunning dial with immense visual depth, as expected from MING’s exceptional design prowess and sensibilities.
Like many of MING’s other horological creations, the 37.04 boasts a distinctive case featuring their signature flared, twisted lugs, which are embellished with multiple textured finishes throughout. It also includes a specially engineered crown with an integrated monopusher. The 37.04 also comes fitted with a handmade Barenia full-grain calf leather strap crafted by famed strap maker Jean Rousseau Paris.
According to MING, only 100 pieces were made available when they first announced the 37.04 in 2022, as they had a limited supply of movements and spare parts. Priority was also given to those on the Special Project Caves interest list, making this 37.04 a particularly rare offering to boot.