Created by Jacques-David LeCoultre in 1931, the Reverso was initially conceived to withstand the harsh beating a watch would endure during a game of polo. With the need for the watch to be more durable, the Reverso's genius reveals itself through its eponymous design–a reversible case. With its case able to be turned around on itself, the Reverso's dial can be protected while playing sports and returned to its natural position with a quick flick and slide. Thanks to its iconic heritage, the Reverso has evolved into one of Jaeger LeCoultre's most important design vehicles to date, with a healthy number of contemporary variations to suit the palate of modern enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike.
Offered here today is, in my opinion, one of the most visually intriguing (read: mouth-watering) variants of the Reverso: this is the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 ‘Chocolate’, Ref. 277.2.22, which was unveiled at SIHH 2014 (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, now known as Watches and Wonders).
Starting with its case design, the Ref. 277.2.22 embodies the classic Grande Reverso styling. It sports an ultra-thin case measuring 46.8mm x 27.4mm, two pairs of squared lugs with conical profiles, and slightly rounded, barrel-like case flanks on each side. The dial showcases a matte chocolate backdrop which, I must say, complements the lustrous tones of its rose gold case excellently. Additionally, the dial is further enhanced by eleven luminous baton-shaped hour markers along its periphery, a prominent ‘12’ marker at 12:00, and a set of elegantly refined sword hands in matching rose gold. Completing the look is a small-seconds at 6:00, with an intricate ‘REVERSO’ inscription positioned just above it.
Looking at the Ref. 277.2.22’s design and aesthetics as a whole, I must say that the pairing of a resplendent rose gold case with a beautiful brown dial, as seen in this example, is an underrated combination. The synergy between the rich, warm colour tones is simply unparalleled. Remarkably, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s decision to forgo their usual logo branding on the dial further underscores the Reverso’s iconic status in the world of watchmaking—a design so distinctive and iconic that no additional branding or markings are required for one to recognize it from afar. Despite being a modern offering, the Ref. 277.2.22 exudes a subtle old-world charm, particularly evident in the presentation of the hour markers and the prominent '12' marker, all of which have been tactfully treated with faux patina. Although I generally have reservations about the use of faux patina on modern dials, the application seen here has been executed with purpose and tasteful restraint, paying ample homage to the 1930s vintage steel model that served as the direct inspiration for this specific design.
Powering this stunning work of art from within is Jaeger LeCoultre’s very own manual-winding, 19-jeweled Cal. 822/2. This ultra-thin calibre, measuring just 2.95mm in thickness, operates at a frequency of 3 Hz and boasts a power reserve of 45 hours when fully wound.
I have always believed that Jaeger LeCoultre Reversos belong to a unique category of their own. It is interesting to note that, while originally designed for use during polo matches and once regarded as sports watches, they are now widely considered by many to be dress watches. They possess a certain hybrid quality that sets them apart from other timepieces in terms of wearability. This exemplifies the Reverso’s true versatility, effortlessly transitioning from the boardroom to the polo field with ease. Ultimately, it serves as a prime illustration of a design that successfully addressed a challenging real-world problem (at the time) and has established itself as an enduring symbol in the world of high-end watchmaking.
