If you are an avid enthusiast/collector of watches, then you are probably no stranger to the work and horological achievements of the prolific and legendary watch designer Gerald Genta. For those who do not know, Gerald Genta was famed for the creation of some of the most iconic watches, including the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, which, as we know it now, redefined the landscape of the watch industry in the late 20th century.
In addition to playing a key role in the creation of some of the most iconic watches of our time, Gerald Genta also produced watches under his own name. He established his eponymous brand in 1969, intending to create watches that were radically different from the conventional designs of that era. One such example is the Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon G.4009.4, which is also the watch offered here today.
As someone who has followed Gerald Genta’s work throughout his illustrious career, I’ve always found his approach to be wildly unconventional, liberating, and, to a certain extent, whimsical—qualities that are even more evident in the watches created under his brand. The G.4009.4 exemplifies this perfectly. With only 10 examples ever produced in this configuration, this is something you do not see everyday. The watch features a subtly octagonal-shaped 35mm yellow gold case with a symmetrical appearance, complemented by setting pushers embedded at 11:30, 1:30, 4:30, and 7:30, respectively. Attached on each end of the case, you’ll find a set of 'Vendome' lugs that securely hold the straps. As shown in the listing photos, the set includes a leather strap with custom holes for the gold attachments, along with a signed butterfly clasp in 18-carat yellow gold, which complements the overall design perfectly.
The dial on this G.4009.4 is nothing short of a visual marvel, as it has been purposefully openworked to reveal the beauty and technical mastery of the exquisite hand-engraved 18-carat gold movement underneath—a labyrinthine network of gears, bridges, springs, and plates, all of which have been hand-finished spectacularly. Its open-worked design hosts the perpetual calendar’s functions across three distinct subdials. The day indicator is positioned at 9:00, the date with running seconds at 6:00, and the month/leap-year indicator together at 3:00. Aesthetically enhancing this layout is a stunning moon phase complication with a gorgeous lapis lazuli backdrop at 12:00, paired with a set of gold épée sword hands at the center and 9 individual lume plots marking the hours around the dial’s periphery. The dial layout is harmoniously symmetrical, and despite its technically complex and intricate design, each subdial is carefully placed to ensure optimal legibility. The displays are thoughtfully arranged, standing out distinctly against the open-worked movement beneath, enhancing both the aesthetic and functional appeal.
While the dial of the G.4009.4 alone is enough to win hearts over, the true enchantment of the watch is revealed when turned over to showcase its stunningly engraved, in-house gilt brass movement, which bears the prestigious Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal). Though the movement remains unnamed, scholarly sources suggest it was designed by Pierre Michel Golay, the head watchmaker at Genta at the time, a legendary figure in his own right, who had worked with Gerald Genta during the 1970s. At the heart of this movement is a one-minute tourbillon-regulator, featuring a triple-armed steel tourbillon cage in the shape of two stylized G’s, complemented by a monometallic balance, which mirrors the engraving found on the case flanks. Adding to the spectacle is an intricately engraved and skeletonized gold winding rotor bearing the initials ‘GG’, perched atop its open-worked bridges adorned with the same detailed engravings in the limited spaces that remain. I must say, this self-winding movement showcases some of the most magnificent and breathtaking engraving work I've ever seen executed on a movement. Honestly, words fail to fully convey its beauty; it is one of those watches that must be viewed in person to be fully appreciated.
Without a shadow of a doubt, the Gerald Genta Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon G.4009.4 stands as a grand complication that is nothing short of a feast for the eyes. While I’ve previously expressed reservations about skeletonized dials in some of our other listings, this piece is truly something special. I can’t even begin to describe how much time I’ve spent getting lost, staring endlessly into its mechanical abyss. It is simply impeccable—visually captivating and mechanically intriguing in every way. This watch represents Gerald Genta at the height of his craft, demonstrating the full extent of his knowledge and technical prowess by daringly combining a tourbillon, perpetual calendar, and exquisite open working into a single timepiece that is the G.4009.4. It is, without question, high horology at its finest.
