Where do I even begin with F.P. Journe? Started by the man himself in 1999, Journe had previously spent quite a few years restoring and producing movements and also made a couple of pocket watches during that time. It took years before the brand went from something only hardcore collectors could appreciate to being recognized by a broader audience. Today, he is considered by many as one of the most successful and important independent watchmakers of the past few decades. In my opinion, F.P. Journe possesses all the traits that make an independent watch brand desirable—exceptional craftsmanship, an unmistakable aesthetic, and controlled annual production quantities (approximately 1,000 pieces a year). This ensures exclusivity, making each timepiece a rare find, but not so rare that it becomes esoteric. Independent watchmakers like Roger Smith and Philippe Dufour are considered pioneers of high horology, but they produce so few pieces annually that the average collector would be hard-pressed to even hear of them, let alone acquire one. Mention F.P. Journe, however, and it's a completely different story.
What we have today is a remarkable example of an early Octa Calendrier in red gold. To give you some context, the Octa Calendrier made its debut in 2002 as F.P. Journe’s first wristwatch to feature an annual calendar complication with a unique retrograde date display. At the time, the dial layout of the Octa Calendrier stood out as one of the most distinctive on the market, offering a design that was truly unlike anything else available.
Like many of F.P. Journe’s horological creations, the brilliance of the Octa Calendrier lies in its impeccable execution, which begins with a modern-sized 40mm red gold case that houses a clean and asymmetrical grey dial. In our previous listing of the 38mm platinum Octa Réserve de Marche, I mentioned it might be the purest iteration of a Journe dial design based on the Cal. 1300 movement, but the Octa Calendrier certainly isn’t far behind in that regard. As I mentioned earlier, the main difference lies in the inclusion of a retrograde-style date indication here displayed along the dial’s left periphery, as well as the day and month indicated through separate off-centered window apertures at 10:30 and 7:30, respectively. The time is elegantly presented on a subdial on the right, with minutes marked by F.P. Journe's signature serif Arabic numerals on the outer ring, just above a Chemin de Fer-style minute track. The hours are positioned in the inner section, highlighted by a delicate guilloché pattern at its center. A smaller subdial for running seconds overlaps below the main dial. To complete the look, all three hands—along with the calendar date indicator—are crafted from thermally blued steel. All of these elements are tastefully and meticulously arranged to showcase F.P. Journe’s mastery of asymmetry and the use of negative space, resulting in a dial layout that is both visually balanced and elegant. True to his unique design language, the watch is also fitted with F.P. Journe’s iconic and classic knurled crown, a signature detail loved and appreciated by Journe fans.
Turning the Octa Calendrier over to its caseback reveals the stunning in-house Cal. 1300-2, showcased in all its golden splendor. Like the case, this exceptional movement is also crafted entirely from red gold, a material F.P. Journe has been using for its movements since 2004. True to Journe’s signature style, the Cal. 1300-2 is visually captivating, featuring meticulous hand-finishing and a variety of advanced decorative techniques that enhance its overall beauty. Notably, the movement houses a large 22-carat gold bi-directional rotor, beautifully adorned with a striking Grain d'orge guilloché, and is intentionally mounted off-center to improve winding efficiency when worn on the wrist. As for power reserve, the Cal. 1300-2 impressively holds up to 120 hours on a full wind. Additionally, it’s also worth highlighting the technical prowess demonstrated with this complication, as F.P. Journe has already accounted for the 29th, 30th, and 31st days of each month, meaning that manual correction is only required once a year on February 28th during non-leap years. To make things even easier, all the indications on the dial can be set via the crown alone, eliminating the need for conventional corrector buttons typically found on the case flanks.
As an avid fan of independent watchmaking, I strongly believe that F.P. Journe has managed to carve out an interesting niche within the realm of haute horology by blending traditional watchmaking elements with modern technology and a distinctly Journe aesthetic. Despite incorporating classic features such as serif Arabic numerals, a knurled winding crown, and a standard round case, there is something magical about how these design elements come together. They harmonize in a way that creates an aesthetic that is unmistakably and uniquely Journe.
When it comes to F.P. Journe timepieces, some effort and distinction are required to fully appreciate and comprehend the design nuances the brand brings to the table. However, when you do, you will come to understand why F.P. Journe is so well loved by watch enthusiasts and collectors from all around the world. Journe’s motto, Invenit et Fecit—which translates from Latin to “Invent and Create”—speaks volumes about his horological works of art. For a relatively small independent brand that makes fewer than 1,000 pieces a year, I tip my hat to F.P. Journe.
