Regarded as one of the hottest horological prospects in the world right now, it is immensely impressive that F.P. Journe has only been around for the length of time that it has. Founded in 1999, F.P. Journe burst onto the watchmaking scene with a 20-piece limited run of Tourbillon Souverain Souscription watches that cash-strapped François Paul used to finance his brand, just like Abraham Louis Breguet did over 200 years ago. Fast forward two decades, and F.P. Journe has evolved into an independent horological powerhouse, with ever-growing waiting lists and increasingly impressive auction results. While it took years for the brand to gain recognition beyond hardcore collectors, it is now widely regarded as one of the most successful and influential independent watchmaking houses to have emerged in recent history.
Here, I have a highly desirable F.P Journe Automatique Octa Lune fitted with a ‘Havana’ dial in a platinum 950 case, named as such because of the stunning brown dial it is fitted with. Offered by F.P. Journe in several other precious metal cases, it can be said, that without a doubt, the ones fitted with Havana dials are some of the most attractive variants and as such, some of the most in-demand as well.
While it might initially appear to be just another brown dial, it’s important to remember that F.P. Journe is an independent brand that loves pushing technical boundaries. The Havana dial is crafted by combining ruthenium and gold, creating a rich, reflective brown tone with remarkable color depth. This technique results in a dial that shifts from dark to light brown—almost tropical-brown / milk chocolate in hue—depending on the lighting conditions.
Encircling the dial at the periphery is a contrasting Chermin de Fer minute track in white, complementing the highly sober Arabic numerals used as hour markers. At its center, a hobnail Clous de Paris pattern also adds some much-needed texture. The dial also features F.P. Journe’s signature asymmetrical layout, with a power reserve indicator at 9:00, a moon phase at 7:00, a running-seconds sub-dial at 4:30, and a large off-centered date window aperture at 11:30. All of these elements are tastefully arranged in a way that showcases F.P. Journe’s exceptional mastery of asymmetry and negative space, resulting in a dial design that is both visually balanced and elegant.
Beyond the dial, encased within its sleek platinum 950 case and visible through the sapphire caseback lies the impressive in-house, self-winding Cal. 1300.3. Like all F.P. Journe watches produced since 2004, this movement is crafted entirely from 18-carat solid rose gold. True to F.P. Journe’s high standards, the Cal. 1300.3 features a massive 120-hour power reserve on a full wind and is also exquisitely decorated, showcasing a partially circular-grained baseplate, perlage on the main plate, Côtes de Genève on the bridges, and meticulous hand-finishing throughout, including hand-polished chamfers and screw-heads. As shown in the listing photos, the off-centered winding rotor in 22-carat rose gold stands out with its flawless guilloché work, further emphasizing F.P. Journe’s exceptional craftsmanship and artisanal mastery.
With all that being said, the Automatique Octa Lune, with its contemporary 42mm case size, is very wearable by modern standards. While it may be widely regarded as one of F.P. Journe's more understated designs compared to some of his earlier works, its execution is quintessentially Journe—elegant, refined with very clean lines and curves. It’s a design that’s simple and balanced, yet crafted with just the right amount of flair to keep things interesting.
