Amongst the litany of independent brands that have popped up in recent years, few of them can compete with the timepieces that De Bethune has been creating. Although the brand has only been around the block for a little over two decades, they are recognized as one of the most exciting and important independent watchmakers today to come out of the Sainte Croix in the Swiss Jura mountains. De Bethune has created a powerful ‘DNA’ as they have unrelentingly developed and stuck with their own unique style. The De Bethune DB28 ‘Kind of Blue’ you see here today is a perfect example of the brand’s innovative spirit and disruptive horological creativity.
The DB28 has become a hallmark of De Bethune, serving as a mainstay in their collection and a platform for numerous creative iterations that highlight the brand’s core values and design mastery. First introduced in 2011, the DB28 instantly earned an award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. To this day, I have yet to encounter another timepiece quite like it. Its breathtaking beauty is difficult to convey in words, but it's effortlessly appreciated when worn on the wrist.
The DB28 ‘Kind of Blue’, like other models in the DB28 collection, was meticulously designed with a strong emphasis on ergonomics, finishing, and craftsmanship. This particular DB28 features a breathtaking thermally-blued grade 5 titanium case, measuring 43mm x 9.3mm, and houses an extraordinary dial layout with unique architecture, including a deltoid-like barrel bridge at the very centre. Interestingly, many initially believed this bridge design was inspired by the Starfleet Command insignia from Star Trek, but Denis Flageollet, co-founder of De Bethune, clarified that it was actually inspired by the unique shape of a leaf he encountered on a walk in the Jura mountains of L’Auberson, his home in Switzerland. The dial itself showcases an intricate array of contrasting, meticulously executed finishes, including the signature Côtes de Bethune pattern, symmetrically mirrored from left to right. Polished, faceted arrow-shaped gold hour markers encircle the dial’s periphery, with a discreet railway-style minute scale on the inner section. Additional features include hand-finished bridges, an exposed balance wheel with a polished titanium bridge, a power reserve indicator that mirrors the one on the caseback, and a 360-degree spherical moon phase display at 6:00. Made from palladium, the moon phase is said to be accurate to 1,122 years.
Without a doubt, this is an exceptional watch, both technically and aesthetically. There’s more, though—flip the watch over, and you’ll be greeted by the breathtaking 6-day double-barrel manual-winding Cal. DB2115, beating away methodically at 28,800 vph. The movement also showcases an impressive array of cutting-edge technology from its release, including a snail-perlage main plate, hand-polished and chamfered steel components, a temperature-compensating silicon balance spring, a two-armed silicon annular balance with platinum inertia blocks, and a silicon center housed within a platinum ring. Additionally, the titanium balance wheel features white gold mass inserts, which help reduce the parasitic effects of aerodynamic drag and temperature fluctuations on timing. The movement comprises 38 jewels, 299 components, self-regulating twin barrels, and a triple parachute shock absorber system mounted onto the balance bridge, enhancing chronometry and overall durability. While admiring the caseback, you’ll also notice a power reserve indicator with a "POWER" warning strip. Visually, it’s a lot to take in, but it perfectly exemplifies De Bethune’s relentless pursuit of technical innovation in watchmaking.
Despite its seemingly intimidating case size and the impressive amount of technology incorporated into its design, the DB28 feels crazy light on the wrist. As mentioned earlier, the choice of materials plays a crucial role here. The case is crafted from thermally blued grade 5 titanium, which has been meticulously mirror-polished to enhance both its strength and aesthetic appeal.
Like the rest of the DB28 variants, it deploys De Bethune’s patented floating-lug system, which aids in the fitment and adjustment of the wearer’s wrist size and movements. That being said, this DB28 ‘Kind of Blue’ is the kind of watch that commands the attention of a room the wearer enters. It’s certainly not one to go unnoticed—its striking appearance and technical prowess make it a true conversation starter.
Without a doubt, the DB28 is a breathtaking piece of horological art, and it’s easy to see why. The exceptional craftsmanship, impressive movement, intricate dial details, and highly wearable case all come together seamlessly. It’s been an absolute pleasure to experience this masterpiece firsthand, and we’re excited to offer this beautiful piece of wearable mechanical art on the site.
