When we think of the big independents today, names such as Kari Voutilainen, Philippe Dufour, F. P. Journe, and Roger Smith come to mind. In fact, there is such a huge appreciation for independents today that it has become somewhat mainstream within collecting circles to own at least one watch from an independent brand.
Before all of this hype though, there was Daniel Roth, which in my opinion, sits right at the top of the pyramid amongst the very best when it comes to independent brands.
To add some context, Daniel Roth was one of the most talented watchmakers of his generation and was responsible for many things you see today but do not realize. For one, he was a leading figure who established the design language of Breguet dress watches that you see today. In the '60s and ’70s, Breguet had become a below-average watch brand with seemingly no future, until they were acquired by Chaumet, who in turn brought in Daniel Roth to lead the helm. The Ref. 3130, with its guilloché dial and its straight-lugged case, set the tone for Breguet and was during the time of Daniel Roth. Moreover, he played a significant role in producing complicated movements for Lemania who may I remind you up until recently still provided the likes of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin with chronograph calibers.
After that chapter of Roth’s life and entering into the ’90s, the independent brand ‘Daniel Roth’ began taking form. There are three significant periods in the history of the Daniel Roth brand, the early period when he was truly independent, the middle period when The Hour Glass was a stakeholder, and the final period when Bvlgari took over and Daniel Roth left the company.
In 1995, Daniel Roth joined forces with The Hour Glass Group and the example you see here today hails from that period. While any early Daniel Roth piece is considered highly desirable, there are still several pieces from the Daniel Roth x Hour Glass period that I think are great and deserve special attention. This Seconds at Six model manages to retain some excellent original Daniel Roth design traits that I find extremely desirable, including the classic anthracite pinstripe vertical guilloché dial reminiscent of his days in Breguet and a beautifully symmetrical design layout. The overall depth of the dial is accentuated further through the contrasting applied silver hour chapter ring, which hosts radially placed Roman numerals as well as thermally-blued hands that complete the elegant look, making this watch unmistakably a Roth, through and through.
Furthermore, this particular example features a lustrous 18-carat yellow gold case. While most watches during this era were housed in stainless steel cases, the use of yellow gold on top of the omission of lume on the dial and hands truly gives off the feel of first-generation Roths.
In the past, I’ve repeatedly expressed my utter disappointment with the direction Daniel Roth took after being acquired by Bvlgari in 2000, who incorporated his unique case design but rebranded it with their style. Needless to say, those reinterpretations were oversized, gaudy, and lacked the elegance of the originals. However, with the brand's recent resurgence in 2023 with the Tourbillon Souscription, I am thrilled to see Daniel Roth finally receiving the recognition it has long deserved and is now one step closer to regaining its footing in the industry once again.
