When we think of the big independents today, names such as Kari Voutilainen, Philippe Dufour, F.P. Journe, and Roger Smith come to mind. In fact, there is such a huge appreciation for independents today that it has become somewhat mainstream within collecting circles to own at least one watch from an independent brand.
Before all of this hype, though, there was Daniel Roth, which, in my opinion, sits right at the top of the pyramid amongst the very best when it comes to independent brands.
To add some context, Daniel Roth was one of the most talented watchmakers of his generation and was responsible for many things you see today but do not realize. For one, he was a leading figure who established the design language of Breguet dress watches that you see today. In the '60s and ’70s, Breguet had become a below-average watch brand with seemingly no future, until they were acquired by Chaumet, who in turn brought in Daniel Roth to lead the helm. The 3130, with its guilloché dial and its straight-lugged case, set the tone for Breguet and was made during the time of Daniel Roth. Moreover, he played a significant role in producing complicated movements for Lemania, who, may I remind you, up until recently still provided the likes of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin with magnificent chronograph calibres.
After that chapter of Roth’s life and entering the ’90s, the independent brand ‘Daniel Roth’ began taking form. The Daniel Roth brand has three distinct periods: the early period when he was truly independent, the middle period when The Hour Glass was a stakeholder, and the final period when Bulgari took over and Daniel Roth left the company.
In 1995, Daniel Roth joined forces with The Hour Glass Group, and the example you see here today hails from that period. With a sleek black lacquered dial with a clean and symmetrical layout, featuring beautiful Breguet numerals and an ingenious GMT function, I think it is an exceptional dress watch with a winning design formula. The circular aperture at 12:00 displays the second time zone hour, and the bottom aperture at 6:00 acts as a 24-hour indicator. Both can be easily adjusted via the dedicated pusher located at 2:00 and the first position of the crown, respectively, making the watch exceptionally user-friendly.
In the past, I’ve repeatedly expressed my utter disappointment with the direction Daniel Roth took after being acquired by Bulgari in 2000, who incorporated his unique case design but rebranded it with their style. Needless to say, those reinterpretations were oversized, gaudy, and clearly lacked the elegance of the originals. However, with the brand's recent resurgence featuring the Tourbillon and Extra Plat Souscription models, as well as the new Tourbillon Rose Gold, I am elated to see that Daniel Roth is finally getting the recognition it truly deserves and is now one step closer to regaining its footing in the industry.
