Amongst the plethora of iconic brands within the watchmaking industry, few possess the ability to create timepieces that evoke pure unadulterated emotion equal to that of Czapek. Founded in 1845 by one of Patek Philippe's founders (François Czapek), Czapek's long heritage as a watchmaker for nobility and royals has ingrained a longstanding tradition within the brand to create some of the finest watches on the market. As someone who has an interest in and has handled high-end timepieces from many independent brands, Czapek has always been somewhat of an exotic outlier for me. It doesn’t possess the allure of mega-popular independent brands like MB&F or Urwerk, or more classical Maisons like H. Moser & Cie, but ever since its revival in 2015, Czapek has managed to carve out its very own unique style, one that they can proudly call their own. Czapek designs have a particular quality to them that I find quite difficult to explain in words, they can only be felt.
I've always been drawn to timepieces with an understated charm, something that transcends mere aesthetics, akin to a "sleeper" type of quality, if you will. Nevertheless, there are instances where I make exceptions to this preference. I'm also drawn to unique features like stone or grand feu enamel dials, or unconventional design elements that you typically don’t see. What we have here today is a watch that falls into this specific category of exceptions and one that I find particularly interesting: the Czapek Antarctique Lanikai P.04, a limited edition of 50 pieces made in collaboration with Collective Horology, a prominent California-based enthusiast platform that creates some of the most interesting collaborations to date, as well as an authorized retailer that carries some of the most exclusive independent brands the horological world has to offer.
Based on the design formula of Czapek’s Antarctique collection, the dial of the Antarctique P.04 Lanikai was crafted with a specific vision in mind. The goal was to capture the distinct aquamarine tones and sandy textures found in the waters encircling Lanikai Beach in Hawaii. This endeavor was particularly inspired by Gabe Reily, one of the co-founders of Collective Horology, who had studied at the University of Hawaii and sought to recreate that captivating visual experience.
To achieve this, the dial blank undergoes a meticulous transformation process to achieve its unique aesthetic. Firstly, it is shaped into a concave form to create varying depths across its surface. Then, a wave texture is carefully stamped onto it using a hand-engraved mold, which seeks to replicate the natural irregularities of the seabed. Working with experts from Donzé Cadrans (a famous enamel dial manufacturer based in Le Locle), a specially sourced turquoise-colored enamel is then carefully applied onto the dial, followed by several rounds of firing in the kiln. This intricate process results in an artistic portrayal of a mesmerizing scene with light and shadows dancing amongst the pearly and wave-like textures, complemented by an aptly contrasting sand-colored seconds hand. I particularly appreciate the fact that there is no date window nor any applied indices, which allows the serene scenery of the dial to take center stage. Completing this, the dial also hosts a set of luminous sword-shaped hands to ensure legibility even in low light conditions.
Despite its playful dial visuals, the P.04 Lanikai still retains a delicate sense of preciousness, whilst still maintaining an overall appearance that is quite appropriate for everyday wear. Measuring a modest 40.5mm x 10.6mm in case dimensions, the P.04 Lanikai is actually quite an elegant contemporary sports watch, and thin enough to slip comfortably under a shirt cuff.
Like many of its Antarctique counterparts, the integrated bracelet on the P.04 Lanikai is extremely well-made and meticulously finished with contrasting surface finishing techniques. It also features an “on-the-fly” micro-adjustment mechanism that is seamlessly incorporated at the clasp section with a spring-loaded mechanism that allows for ease of adjustment. Absolutely brilliant.
When you turn the watch over on its caseback, you will be greeted by the gorgeous in-house Cal. SXH5 movement in all of its glory. Featuring a distinctive architecture with impeccable finishing and decoration and topped off with a platinum micro-rotor and seven bridges, the Cal. SXH5 is also the very first movement developed and produced in-house by Czapek. It operates at 28,800 vph and holds an impressive power reserve of 60 hours when fully wound.
As an overall package, the Antarctique P.04 Lanikai Limited Edition is a unique and visually evocative watch. Its understated case profile on the wrist is complemented by a dial that makes me feel like I am carrying a piece of the beach with me whenever I wear it. If I was its owner, I could picture wearing this watch as I eagerly count down the days to my next beach holiday. I’m sure you’d do the same, right?
