The name Cartier needs no introduction. As one of the most influential and celebrated jewellery and watch brands of the last century, it has always stood as a mark of luxury and desirability. Without taking away from its historical significance, I would say that when it comes to watches, Cartier has always been predominantly known as a ‘design’ brand rather than a pure watchmaking one, with stunningly iconic models such as the Tank, the Crash, and the Santos all seen as important due to how it looks. In fact, to this day, it is the beautiful and unconventional designs that attract collectors and allow it to hold a unique position in the watch brand hierarchy that no other possesses.
As I have mentioned many times before, the '90s were a challenging time for watch brands recovering from the quartz crisis, with many brands either experimenting wildly or remaining conservative. As interest in mechanical watches grew, Cartier decided that it was time to show the world what the Maison was capable of. With that in mind, Cartier launched the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) division, which was an initiative focused on recreating beloved models with high-quality movements, collaborating with renowned manufacturers like Piaget, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and others. Looking back, it was a pivotal and defining decision for the Maison.
What we have here today is an exceptional example of a Cartier Tank Cintrée from the said CPCP era (between 1998 – 2008), with a case crafted from resplendent 18-carat yellow gold. For historical context, the Tank Cintrée made its debut in 1921, a mere two years following the introduction of the original Tank and has intermittently held its place in the brand's repertoire ever since.
Of course, any Tank Cintrée would be special in its own right irrespective of variant, but the CPCP version stands its ground as one of the most desirable Cartier pieces ever produced. While the platinum example is the holy grail with 50 pieces produced, the yellow gold version is not far behind with only 150 pieces produced, making it one of the most desired Cintree’s in today’s market.
Designed as a more refined and graceful iteration of the Tank, the Tank Cintrée boasts a distinctive case profile characterized by a seemingly broad, elongated yet slender design (this example measuring 46mm x 23mm) with a subtle arch, seamlessly embracing any wrist it graces and effortlessly fitting under the cuff. As with all Tank Cintrées, it is hard to describe in mere words just how elegant and thoughtful the case design is. It is only once after one wears a Tank Cintrée, that they truly understand what the hype is all about. I have never seen a watch sit so perfectly flush against my wrist, and that is a true testament to the masterful design of the Tank Cintrée.
When it comes to its matte silver dial, this Tank Cintrée encapsulates quintessential Cartier aesthetic codes, showcasing a lavish design with exploded Arabic numerals in black that fill up the space along the periphery, a contrasting railway minutes track, a set of blued steel apple-shaped hands, as well as the iconic and striking sapphire blue cabochon set on its beaded crown which makes an excellent complementary design element to the blued steel hands.
Powering the Tank Cintrée from within is Cartier's manual-winding Cal. 8780 MC, an ultra-thin movement that is essentially based on the ébauche Jaeger LeCoultre Cal. 849.
Given everything I have discussed above, it's no mystery why the Tank Cintrée has prominently held the esteemed position of the flagship model within the renowned Maison — it simply looks and wears like a dream. Undoubtedly, it stands out as one of the most iconic Cartier timepieces and an absolute must-have for any serious collector.
