The name Cartier requires no introduction. As one of the most influential and celebrated jewellery and watch brands of the last 100 years, it has always stood as a mark of luxury and desirability. Without taking away from its historical significance, I would say that when it comes to watches, Cartier has always been predominantly known as a ‘design’ brand rather than a pure watchmaking one, with stunningly iconic models such as the Tank, the Crash, and the Santos all seen as important due to how it looks. In fact, to this day, it is the beautiful and unconventional designs that attract collectors and allows it to hold a unique position in the watch brand hierarchy that no other brand possesses.
Amongst the most famous watches lies a handful of timepieces that have stood the test of time for over an entire century. Released in 1917 and inspired by the tanks Louis Cartier saw on the western front in WWI, the Cartier Tank is a classic timepiece that has become one of the famed French jewelry Maison's most important collections. Over its long and storied past, it has taken on many different shapes, styles, sizes, colours, and so much more. Offered here today is a modern take on perhaps the most iconic and emblematic model of Cartier that has been a sleeper in the Maison’s catalogue for the longest time – the Tank Normale.
Released in 2023 as part of Cartier’s Privé collection, this Privé Tank Normale we have for you today is anything but normal, limited to just 100 pieces in this platinum case and bracelet combination. When I first held this watch in my hand, I was immediately drawn to its simple yet captivating beauty and vintage-inspired appearance (I’m a sucker for vintage reissues done right). Regarding its case design, the Privé Tank Normale pretty much speaks for itself – pure, elegant, and aptly restrained in construction. The case measures a well-balanced 32.6mm x 25.7mm and is constructed out of hefty platinum 950, completed with a characteristic ruby cabochon-set winding crown. Encased within is a vertically brushed silver dial showcasing Cartier’s characteristic Roman numerals, a railroad-style minutes track and a set of rhodium-plated brass épée (sword) hands, which was also seen on Tank Normales from the 1940s. To complete the ensemble, the full platinum brick bracelet included here is a masterpiece in itself. Inspired by brick bracelets Cartier used to make in the 1900s, it is exquisitely executed and looks absolutely stunning on the wrist. In my opinion, it completely transforms the Normale and compared to the non-bracelet version, it feels like an entirely different watch.
It is worth noting that the Privé Tank Normale has been thoughtfully updated with design elements to cater to modern preferences while remaining true and faithful to its original form from 1917. From its tastefully bevelled sapphire crystal as seen on the original to the brancards with finely satin-brushed areas and polished chamfers, including a hidden signature within the VII numeral indicating '1917' (instead of the usual ‘Cartier’ text), which pays a subtle homage to its birth year. How cool is that?
Powering the Privé Tank Normale from within is Cartier’s in-house, manual-winding Cal. 070, an ultra-compact movement that beats at a frequency of 25,200 bph and boasts a respectable 38-hour power reserve on a full wind.
Again, Cartier may not be primarily known for its high-end technical watchmaking history, but the Maison symbolizes something far more profound. Its designs carry a sense of transcendence that speaks to watch enthusiasts and connoisseurs across different generations. For me, this transcendence is epitomized in the Cartier Tank, even more so in its original and purest form – the Tank Normale. There's just simply nothing quite like a nicely proportioned Cartier Tank that pays appropriate tribute to its decorated past while also being modern enough to appeal to modern connoisseurs. And yes, I will mention again, the brick bracelet is mighty impressive.
