The name Cartier needs no introduction. As one of the most influential and celebrated jewellery and watch brands of the last 100 years, it has always stood as a mark of luxury and desirability. Without taking away from its historical significance, I would say that when it comes to watches, Cartier has always been predominantly known as a ‘design’ brand rather than a pure watchmaking one, with stunningly iconic models such as the Tank, the Crash and the Santos all seen as important due to how it looks. In fact, to this day, it is the beautiful and unconventional designs that attract collectors and allow it to hold a unique position in the watch brand hierarchy that no other possesses.
In recent years, the Cartier Privé collection has served as a platform for Cartier to re-explore some of its historically significant and iconic designs. Among the exemplary models in this collection are the Crash, which inaugurated the series, followed by the Tank Cintrée, the Tonneau, and the Asymétrique. Offered here today is a timepiece that deviates slightly from the typical Cartier case design: the Privé Collection Cloche de Cartier in 18-carat rose gold.
Picture this: it's 1920, and the world is slowly recovering from the aftermath of World War I. In the vibrant atmosphere of Paris, there's a palpable desire for something new, liberating, and thrilling. When the first Cloche was introduced (initially as a brooch), it sparked immense interest and excitement among the stylish and daring individuals of the slightly eccentric café society scene. This era, known as Les Années Folles (the Roaring Twenties), embraced social, artistic, and cultural dynamism like never before. The Cloche, with its innovative design, was unlike anything seen before, resembling a bell, hence its name, which literally translates to "bell" in French. Over time, the Cloche evolved into a wristwatch, boasting more luxurious materials such as platinum and diamonds, along with a yellow gold version featuring a leather strap introduced in 1922.
Fast forward to 2021, the Cloche was then revisited by Cartier as part of the Privé Collection in three variations (non-skeletonised dials) - platinum, yellow gold and rose gold. Each variant was produced in just 100 numbered pieces. As far as overall aesthetic is concerned, the Cloche retains most of its original DNA and charm, and of course, with some minor tweaks and adjustments to better accommodate modern tastes. Regarding its case size, the Cloche measures a modest 37.15mm x 28.75mm with a thickness of 6.7mm. While slightly larger than its predecessors, it remains relatively svelte compared to many other contemporary watches, making it a suitable fit for most modern wrists.
The bell-shaped case of the Cloche is undoubtedly the most notable feature of the watch. Thanks to this unique and unconventional design, the arrangement of Cartier’s iconic Roman numeral hour markers and the railroad minute track becomes particularly intriguing. Positioned adjacent to the sapphire cabochon crown, the 12 o'clock marker seamlessly follows the curvature of the case. This deliberate placement serves a practical purpose: when the strap is secured, the watch can function as a desk clock when placed on a nightstand or desk. Additionally, the Cloche's dial boasts a radially-brushed surface and is adorned with elegant épée (sword) hands and hour numerals in matching pink gold, adding a nice elegant touch to the overall design.
Encased within the Cloche is Cartier’s in-house Cal. 1917 MC, a rather compact manually-wound movement that was developed by Cartier to accommodate the demanding requirements of certain unique Cartier case shapes, such as the Privé Tank Asymétrique and the Privé Tonneau. Because of this, it uses a much smaller mainspring, resulting in a significantly conservative power reserve of 38 hours. While this may seem modest, I think it is ample for a formal or dress watch, serving its rather purpose effectively.
Undoubtedly, the Privé Cloche stands out as an exceptional dress watch in nearly every aspect, and its relative rarity only adds to its allure. To think that a watch designed and conceived a little over a century ago was able to withstand the tides of time is an impressive feat. While it may not enjoy the same level of recognition as Cartier's more iconic models like the Tank or Santos, the Privé Cloche holds a special place among collectors due to its overall rarity and unconventional design. There is a certain romanticism and timelessness that comes with the design language of the Cloche, and I am very certain that it will continue to be just as timeless for many more decades to come.
