The name Cartier needs no introduction. As one of the most influential and celebrated jewellery and watch brands of the last 100 years, it has always stood as a mark of luxury and desirability. Without taking away from its historical significance, I would say that when it comes to watches, Cartier has always been predominantly known as a ‘design’ brand rather than a pure watchmaking one, with stunningly iconic models such as the Tank, the Crash and the Santos all seen as important due to how it looks. In fact, to this day, it is the beautiful and unconventional designs that attract collectors and allow it to hold a unique position in the watch brand hierarchy that no other possesses.
When discussing iconic Cartier designs, names like the Crash, Tank Cintrée, and Santos Dumont often come to mind. However, today, we are excited to present a timepiece that offers a subtle departure from the classic Cartier case design: the Cloche de Cartier. Crafted in 18-carat yellow gold, it features a beautifully executed, vintage-inspired guilloché dial with bold Roman Numerals. Furthermore, this particular example was conceived as a part of Cartier’s NSO program (New Special Order), which is an exclusive offering only made available to Cartier's most exclusive clients, allowing them to craft semi-custom Cartier timepieces using design options available in Cartier's catalogue.
To truly understand the history and significance of the Cloche, I think we must revisit the early 20th century. Picture this: It's 1920, and the world is slowly recovering from the aftermath of World War I. In the vibrant atmosphere of Paris, there's a palpable desire for something new, liberating, and thrilling. When the first Cloche was introduced, initially as a brooch, it sparked immense interest and excitement among the stylish and daring individuals of the slightly eccentric café society scene. This era, known as Les Années Folles, or the Roaring Twenties, embraced social, artistic, and cultural dynamism like never before. The Cloche, with its innovative design, was unlike anything seen before, resembling a bell, hence its name, which literally translates to "bell" in French. Over time, the Cloche evolved into a wristwatch, boasting more luxurious materials such as platinum and diamonds, along with a yellow gold version featuring a leather strap, which was introduced in 1922.
While the Cloche made a critically acclaimed return in 2021 as part of Cartier’s prestigious Privé Collection, we're beginning to see a growing number of collectors choosing the Cloche as the platform design for their respective NSOs, and it’s not hard to see why—measuring a modest 37.15mm x 28.75mm with a mere thickness of 6.7mm, the Cloche is slightly larger than its vintage predecessors but remains relatively svelte compared to many contemporary counterparts. This makes it a perfect fit for most modern wrists.
The bell-shaped case of the Cloche is undoubtedly its most distinctive characteristic. Thanks to this unique and unconventional design, the original owner chose to omit the chemin de fer railroad minute track, allowing the iconic Roman numeral hour markers to fully take center stage, slightly enlarged. Accompanying this intriguing combination is a vintage-inspired dial with a unique and elaborate guilloché motif, which stands out among other examples I’ve seen so far. Positioned next to the sapphire cabochon crown, the 12:00 marker seamlessly follows the curvature of the case. This intentional design choice serves a practical purpose: when the strap is secured, the watch can also function as a desk clock, making it perfect for display on a nightstand or desk. To complete this striking ensemble, this Cloche NSO is also fitted with a set of elegant blued apple-shaped hands at its center, beautifully complementing the iconic sapphire blue cabochon set on its beaded crown, and offers a nice contrast to its 18-carat yellow gold case.
Encased within the Cloche is Cartier’s in-house Cal. 1917 MC, a rather compact manual-winding movement that Cartier developed to accommodate the demanding requirements of certain unique Cartier case shapes, such as the Privé Tank Asymétrique and the Privé Tonneau. Because of this, it uses a much smaller mainspring, resulting in a significantly conservative power reserve of 38 hours. While this may seem modest, I think it is ample for a formal or dress watch, serving its purpose rather effectively.
Undoubtedly, the Cloche stands out as an exceptional dress watch from Cartier in nearly every aspect, and its relative rarity only adds to its allure. To think that a watch designed and conceived a little over a century ago was able to withstand the tides of time is an impressive feat. While it may not enjoy the same level of recognition as Cartier's more iconic models, the Cloche holds a special place among collectors thanks to its overall rarity, enduring visual appeal, and unconventional design. There’s a certain romanticism and timelessness embedded in the Cloche’s design language, and I’m confident it will continue to captivate for many more decades to come.
