Without a doubt, Abraham Louis Breguet is considered the most influential watchmaker of all time. With inventions such as the overcoil hairspring and the Tourbillon amongst a myriad of others, the brand has one of the richest histories of any watch manufacture in the world today.
It wasn’t always like this, though. While the Maison enjoyed great success in the 18th and 19th centuries, producing pocket watches for the most influential people in the world, by the 20th century, the brand was decrepit and nearly non-existent. Other than producing the occasional piece here and there, they predominantly supplied Type 20 watches to the military. The Type 20 models, in terms of design, were a departure from the elegant timepieces that had characterized the brand's earlier years.
In the mid-1970s, the Chaumet brothers, renowned for their jewellery brand, acquired Breguet and sought to revitalize the manufacture. Under the leadership of François Bodet and the relocation from Paris to Switzerland, Daniel Roth was enlisted to head the watchmaking team. The outcome of this rejuvenation effort has become an enduring part of horological history.
To this day, the style reintroduced in the ’70s and ’80s remains, most notably the engine-turned dials with their intricate guilloché patterns, the coin case with its fluted middle section, straight lugs, and, of course, the pomme-shaped ‘Breguet’ hands.
The Classique Chronograph 5237, the watch featured here today, stands as a brilliant testament to Breguet's unwavering dedication to excellence in modern watchmaking. As the successor to one of the brand’s earliest and perhaps most historically significant references—the Classique Chronograph 3237—its lineage and DNA are unmistakable. The 5237 retains many visual similarities to its predecessor, with some subtle updates, such as an increased case size from 36mm to 38mm.
Despite the modest increase in case size, the 5237 maintains an elegantly balanced presence on the wrist. It embodies the quintessential Breguet aesthetic in both design and proportions, showcasing a beautifully crafted mid-case with captivating coin-fluted edges and 2 pairs of signature scalloped lugs that gracefully extend outward from the case, gently curving downward for exceptional wearability.
This watch is powered by the Breguet Cal. 533.3, which is essentially based on the revered Lemania Cal. 2320—a slightly more refined successor to the Lemania Cal. 2310. It’s important to note that this movement also served as the foundation for other significant calibers, such as the Patek Philippe Cal. CH27-70Q, found in famous references like the 3970 and 5970 Perpetual Calendar Chronographs. Needless to say, the 5237 carries forward a legacy of exceptional craftsmanship, featuring a swan-neck regulator and exquisite finishing to the highest standards. In terms of power reserve, the Cal. 533.3 can hold a total charge of up to 48 hours on a full wind.
As far as aesthetics go, the Classique 5237, true to its name, boasts a classical and dressy appearance, highlighted by a mix of impeccable finishing and other subtle embellishments. While the dial may seem simple at first glance, it reveals remarkable complexity upon closer inspection with a captivating blend of textures. At the center, a cross-hatch Clous de Paris guilloché pattern contrasts beautifully against the vertical wave pattern within the concentrically brushed sub-dials. These sub-dials display the running seconds at 9:00 and a 30-minute counter at 3:00. The outer chapter ring, with a similar circular brushing, hosts some very refined-looking Roman numerals to mark the hours, except the gold dotted markers placed at 9:00 and 3:00. These gold dotted markers provide a subtle but effective contrast, breaking up the otherwise minimalist visual of the dial. Completing the look are a set of strikingly blued steel Breguet hands, which also adds a much-needed contrasting element to offset the dial’s overall muted appearance.
Although I generally gravitate towards 36mm or 37mm dressier watches, I find the wearability of the 38mm case in the 5237 is a pleasant surprise—and certainly a welcome one. Far from being large or obtrusive on the wrist, the 5237 strikes a wonderful balance between the traditional design elements that are quintessentially Breguet, with slightly enlarged proportions for modern wrists. I’d imagine the 5237 would appeal to the collector who appreciates a dressy chronograph but also desires a slightly larger and more versatile case size. If that resonates with you, this stunning Breguet Classique Chronograph 5237 is certainly a reference worth considering adding to your watch box.
