When it comes to unconventional and whimsical independent watch brands, Behrens is certainly a young brand that fits the bill. Founded in 2012 in Shenzhen, China, Behrens, like many independent watch brands today, isn’t afraid to push the technical boundaries of what’s possible. One standout example of their remarkable work is the Behrens BH030 Ultralight 20g, which, I must say, is a polarizing watch—in the best way possible. First unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2023, it features an asymmetrical trapezoidal case shape—a detail that even extends to its presentation box.
As someone who has heard a lot about Behrens but has yet to encounter much of their work, everything about this watch feels both foreign and oddly familiar—fresh, yet reminiscent of a design concept I’ve seen before. Take, for example, its feather-light construction and semi-aggressive styling, which evoke a conceptual and almost spiritual resemblance to the more technical, high-end titanium and carbon sports watches from brands like Richard Mille, F.P. Journe, Rebellion, and even De Bethune, to some extent.
At first glance, you’ll notice that the case is longer on the left side and gradually narrows down towards the right. On paper, the case measures 42.6mm x 38.2mm x 6mm, with a subtle downward arch that enhances its overall wearability. According to Behrens, the provocative case design was inspired by the concept of a ceremonial tool called the ‘Hu’ (笏 in Mandarin), with a history dating back to the Zhou Dynasty (1046–256 BCE) of ancient China. Before the widespread use of paper, this scepter-like object was used by court officials and ministers to record official notes, orders, and important instructions from the emperor.
As its name suggests, the BH030’s ‘Ultralight’ quality comes from the use of grade 5 titanium in both the case and the movement. While I’m not usually a fan of ultra-light watches, as I tend to prefer timepieces with a bit more heft, the BH030 is an exception for me due to how natural and seamless the entire design feels on the wrist. Visually, there’s a lot going on, but at the same time, every component of the BH030 feels thoughtfully designed and never forced. From how the watch sits comfortably on the wrist to the soft Fluoroelastomer rubber strap that secures it snugly—even though it’s a massive 23mm in width—the slim case, thin strap, and flushed lugs help offset much of the perceived visual bulk. This is a plus if you plan to wear the BH030 for extended periods throughout the day.
Powering the BH030 from within is a uniquely manufactured in-house, manual-winding Cal. BM02 with a double retrograde function and a 38-hour power reserve. If you look closer, you’ll notice that the movement essentially doubles as the dial. In the pursuit of ultra-lightness, Behrens took an innovative approach by printing all the markings directly onto the underside of the curved sapphire crystal, eliminating the need for a traditional dial to host these details. All of this results in a layout comprising a double retrograde display, with the hours on the left and minutes on the right, both indicated by hands with bright red tips for legibility. The two indications are individually separated by an exposed, free-sprung balance wheel at 6:00, beating methodically at 28,800 bph. A power reserve indicator is also discreetly tucked away at 11:00. It’s worth noting that the combination here of industrial grey titanium, intricately polished hands and wheels, and the solid titanium caseback as a backdrop comes together beautifully. That said, the most impressive aspect of the Cal. BM02 for me, is that the movement is deliberately curved to fit perfectly within the slim 6mm, 15-degree arched case. How insane is that?
Time and time again, it’s offerings like these from small yet incredibly passionate brands like Behrens that make the independent watchmaking scene so exciting and dynamic. Sure, the BH030’s aesthetics may not resonate with everyone, but I think that’s exactly what makes it so novel and intriguing. It appeals to a certain type of connoisseur—one who’s in the market for a wildcard piece or perhaps an enthusiast looking for something off the beaten path. If that sounds like you, the BH030 Ultralight 20g could be the perfect addition to your watch box: sleek, thin, yet mighty in both concept and design.
