The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is not only famous for what it looks like, but also for how it was introduced. First released in the ’70s, the original Ref. 5402 was a bold stainless-steel watch designed by Gerald Genta that created shockwaves because it was priced the same as a solid gold watch. People just could not accept that a pedestrian material such as steel could be priced so exorbitantly and consequently, it was not very popular. It was only after some time that the public saw this as something genuinely original and avant-garde which eventually solidified the Royal Oak as a true icon.
Riding on this wave, the Royal Oak had a reincarnation in 1993 as Audemars Piguet introduced a whole new variant of the model with an integrated design - the Royal Oak Offshore. Designed by then-22-year-old watch designer, Emmanuel Gueit, the Offshore's raison d'etre was to establish a foothold in the increasingly youth-oriented luxury sports watch market that was opening up. As Audemars Piguet had recognized that younger collectors were beginning to spend more money, they decided they needed a watch to market to these individuals, and the Offshore was that watch. Nicknamed ‘The Beast’ by watch enthusiasts, it was basically a more-sporty extension of the Royal Oak (a Royal Oak on steroids, if you will). Although it divided opinion during its initial release (even Gerald Genta wasn’t a fan), the Offshore still went on to win the hearts of many other enthusiasts over the years that followed.
Over the years, numerous variations of the Offshore have been introduced, with the majority featuring chronograph functions. However, in 2010, Audemars Piguet unveiled a significant addition to the lineup: a time-only Offshore model dubbed the “Diver”. The particular example offered here today is the Ref. 15720ST, representing a subsequent iteration of this offering. For myself and many others, the concept of a time-only Audemars Piguet dive watch equipped with a countdown inner rotating bezel seemed like a natural and logical choice.
The Ref. 15720ST is a robust timepiece that commands the attention of any room, featuring a 42mm x 14.2mm stainless-steel case construction. The case also features a raised octagonal bezel with screws, an exposed blue rubber gasket at the mid-case section, grey ceramic screw-locked crowns at 10 o ‘clock for the inner rotating bezel and 3 o ‘clock for general time setting, as well as a combination of vertically brushed surfaces accompanied by highly polished bevels at the edges of the stainless-steel case.
In contrast to the regular "Petit Tappiserie" signature found on most Royal Oaks, the Offshore Diver features a unique "Mega Tappiserie" design on its matte grey dial, creating a distinct aesthetic that effectively utilizes the dial's spaces. The dial is further enhanced by thick luminous baton hands and index markers, contributing to its overall legibility. Boasting a water resistance of 300 meters and equipped with a grey rubber strap, the Ref. 15720ST is definitely a tool watch built for any situation or environment.
Powering this beast from within is Audemars Piguet’s 234-part, 31-jewelled, self-winding Cal. 4308. Beating away methodically at 28,800 vph, this in-house calibre also holds an impressive power reserve of 60 hours.
Even after almost three decades since its introduction, the Offshore has retained its cultural significance and continues to be a successful embodiment of watch design. After all, we are seeing more and more derivative variations of the Offshore being introduced as time goes on, and it is not hard to see why it is considered a design staple. In my opinion, the Offshore exemplified Audemars Piguet's visionary approach in anticipating the demand for high-end experimental sports watches, and the Offshore Diver Ref. 15720ST is a shining example of this.
