The Royal Oak, with its masculine octagonal case, exposed screws and integrated bracelet is one of the most distinctive watches in the market today. It is aesthetically imposing and recognisable, and in my opinion, one of the best statement watches money can buy.
The Royal Oak is not only famous for what it looks like, but also for how it was introduced. First released in the ’70s, the original Ref. 5402 was a bold stainless steel watch designed by Gerald Genta that created shockwaves. It was designed as a luxury sports watch and the scandalous part was that it was priced accordingly- the same as an equivalent gold watch of its era. People just could not accept that a pedestrian material such as steel could be priced so exorbitantly and consequently, it was not very popular. It was only after some time that the public saw this as something genuinely original and avant-garde, making the Royal Oak an icon.
For the longest time, the Ref. 15202ST had been hailed by enthusiasts as the most faithful modern iteration of the original Ref. 5402. It remained highly coveted among Royal Oak aficionados for many years—from 2000 up until its discontinuation in 2022, which subsequently marked the debut of the Ref. 16202 by Audemars Piguet, commemorating the 50th anniversary of the iconic Royal Oak line.
When compared directly to its predecessor, the Ref. 16202 exhibits strikingly similar aesthetics, that is, until you flip the watch over to reveal its caseback. Here, Audemars Piguet’s newly developed in-house, self-winding Cal. 7121 takes centre stage, showcasing a specially engraved ‘50th-Years’ rhodium-plated pink gold rotor, which was only featured exclusively for Ref. 16202s produced in the year 2022, alongside the addition of a quick-set date function (finally). In terms of finishing, it's everything one would expect from Audemars Piguet; impeccable Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes), circular graining, and meticulous traits-tirés beveling throughout. Moreover, it offers a 52-hour power reserve on a full charge.
When Audemars Piguet announced the discontinuation of the Ref. 15202, many felt it marked the end of an era (myself included). However, after spending some time with this Ref. 16202ST, I feel inclined to say that Audemars Piguet impeccably preserved the timeless characteristics that made the Ref. 15202 so sought-after in the Ref. 16202—it almost feels as though it never left, or rather, returned with a plethora of technical upgrades, which I wholeheartedly endorse.
Just like its older brother, the Ref. 16202's rich blue dial (referred to as Midnight Blue, Nuage 50) is just as stunning. There is a certain mesmerizing quality that's difficult to put into mere words, with its "Petite Tappisserie" motif gleaming in the light and showcasing a range of blue hues depending on the surrounding lighting. When it's on my wrist, I often catch myself simply gazing at the dial, completely captivated by its beauty, and losing track of the time altogether.
