The Royal Oak, with its masculine octagonal case, exposed screws, and integrated bracelet is one of the most iconic watches ever made. It is angular and imposing in design, easily recognizable even from afar, and perhaps one of the best statement watches money can buy today.
The Royal Oak is not only famous for what it looks like, but also for how it was introduced. First released in the 1970s, the original Ref. 5402 was a bold stainless steel watch designed by Gerald Genta that created shockwaves. It was initially designed as a luxury sports watch and the scandalous part was that it was priced accordingly—the same as an equivalent gold watch of its era. I believe many would agree with me that while the Royal Oak’s connection to steel is significant to its legacy, the gold models are the true hidden treasures within the collection. There is just something special about a solid gold Royal Oak, particularly one made in the more understated and luxurious 18-carat white gold.
To the untrained eye, all Royal Oaks might seem identical, but for those in the know, the Ref. 15202 stands out in terms of both its visual appeal and demand. Among the numerous iterations of time-only Royal Oaks, the Ref. 15202 is the only reference that most faithfully pays homage to the original Ref. 5402, earning it the 'Jumbo' nickname. With its distinctive 39mm size and use of the same Jaeger LeCoultre-derived Cal. 2121 just like the original, this is the Royal Oak designed for purists. It features a set of matching baton hands, a slim case profile at 8.1mm, and boasts a captivating sapphire caseback showcasing its movement with an intricately decorated 22-carat gold rotor. When worn, it sits on the wrist with impeccable balance and proportionality.
The example offered here today, the Ref. 15202BC, is a particularly unique variant of this esteemed reference. Released in 2019, it features a uniquely coloured dial, described by Audemars Piguet as ‘pink gold-toned,’ and pays tribute to the Ref. 14802ST—a limited edition Royal Oak (also known as the Royal Oak Jubilee) released in stainless steel, yellow gold, and platinum to celebrate the Royal Oak's 30th anniversary in 1992. Notably, only a small number out of all the 700 pieces of the Ref. 14802s were equipped with salmon dials, as the rest were fitted with blue-grey dials. While some may loosely refer to the dial colour on the Ref. 15202BC as ‘salmon,’ it’s important to note that it differs slightly from the typical salmon tones collectors are usually familiar with. It lacks the pink-reddish hue usually associated with salmon dials and instead displays a warmer yellow tone reminiscent of brass. It is also worth noting that the dial has a date function complemented by a nice little detail—a color-matching disc, which can be seen at the 3:00 position.
Having seen and handled my fair share of Ref. 15202s—and Royal Oaks in general—I can confidently say that the heft and visual splendour of a Royal Oak in precious metal is truly unmatched. With only 75 pieces produced annually, the Ref. 15202BC is a genuinely one-of-a-kind Royal Oak. Everything about this piece feels just right—from the substantial 18-carat white gold case to the uniquely striking pink gold-toned petite tapisserie dial, and the way light dances off the case against the shimmering dial. This Ref. 15202BC has quickly become one of my favourite Royal Oak variants to date. Period.
